I am usually opposed to fish in a taco. This Kansas City restaurant changed my mind

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I have ordered many meals from the extensive menu at Boho Sway at the Canary since its grand opening in January — Caribbean-inspired entrees such as Blackened Red Fish, Chipotle Coffee Lamb Chops and Surf and Turf.

But lately I find myself sitting at the bar and enjoying two starters as my amazing main course: Lemon Grass Ginger Wings and Spicy Salmon Sashimi Tacos.

Each one is an upscale and innovative take on a personal favorite, infused with Boho’s signature island taste.

As a lifelong fan of lemon pepper wings, I expected something along those lines from Boho Sway’s version. I was pleasantly proven wrong. The six crispy wings ($15) are coated with a delightful seasoning, blending fresh lemon and a hint of ginger, giving each bite a pop of flavor.

I am usually opposed to fish-based tacos. However, in the spirit of exploration, I gave the Spicy Salmon Sashimi Tacos a try and was rewarded for my daring. The three tacos ($15), much like the wings, combine styles and flavors that class up an old favorite. In addition to the spicy salmon, the three tacos are made with lump crab and a zesty red pepper aioli sauce.

Boho Sway at the Canary is in the heart of the city at 3835 Main St., and according to co-owner Joseph Macklin, it needed that centralized location to bring people together.

“The best part is providing a space for people to come and feel welcome and safe,” says Macklin. “Seeing the community coming out and supporting us. Seeing people walk through the door that we would have never imagined but they are here and they feel welcome. That was our biggest thing, we wanted to create a universal space that everyone felt welcome.”

Macklin and business partner Steve Hooks approached Anita Moore, chef and owner of Soiree Steak & Oyster House, to develop their menu and create a new experience for KC diners.

Macklin, well-known in the city as Jo Blaq, a Grammy-nominated producer, wanted to combine his love of music and food to create a place built around a positive vibe. He also wanted to open up options for vegans like himself wishing to enjoy a quality meal.

“We did realize there weren’t many vegan places that did fine dining, so we wanted to make sure we added that and included plant based,” says the 42-year-old Wyandotte County native. “We wanted something that felt like it was around the world and something that everybody could enjoy.”

Boho’s diverse vegan-friendly menu includes the Boho Sway Salad, Aloo Curry, Vegetable Fried Rice and Crispy Truffle Brussels.

The restaurant opened its rooftop area in April, hosting day parties, brunches, open mics and Bollywood and Latin nights. Macklin is excited about plans for a rooftop cinema event this summer to show classic films from Black artists.

“We know the direction where we want to go,” says Macklin. “We wanted to create a space where people can come and socialize with their friends, talk, have a good conversation, drink, eat, go up to the rooftop, dance if they want to, listen to some Afro beats and go home and say that was a great night.”

This story was originally published June 13, 2023 at 5:30 AM.

J.M. Banks

The Kansas City Star

J.M. Banks is The Star’s culture and identity reporter. He grew up in the Kansas City area and has worked in various community-based media outlets such as The Pitch KC and Urban Alchemy Podcast.