Come Into My Kitchen

Come Into My Kitchen column celebrates 60 years of recipes from our readers

The Come Into My Kitchen column has featured recipes both simple and exotic in its 60 years. Here, Mrs. Charles Dorman hands her husband a platter of quail trimmed with bacon for an annual wild game dinner they hosted.
The Come Into My Kitchen column has featured recipes both simple and exotic in its 60 years. Here, Mrs. Charles Dorman hands her husband a platter of quail trimmed with bacon for an annual wild game dinner they hosted.

In a world obsessed with snippets lasting 60 seconds or less, 60 years might seem like an eternity.

But, though in the moment food can be fleeting, it also has a way of sticking with you.

“The Come Into My Kitchen column has a timeless quality to it,” says former features editor Marjean (Phillips) Busby, who was one of the first writers to pen the column. “I’m not a cook, but I still like reading what other people do in their own kitchens.”

Over six decades, approximately 3,100 cooks (and in some families several generations) have been featured in the weekly Come Into My Kitchen column since it debuted on Nov. 7, 1955, in The Kansas City Times.

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The first column featured Mrs. Harold Anderson, a Kansas City homemaker married to the former police chief, baking a loaf of Swedish rye bread that was regarded highly by family and friends.

The late Erma Young, the column’s original editor, wrote of its inception as “a look at Kansas City kitchens and a friendly exchange of recipes,” and that delicious directive hasn’t changed. But the column has come a long way since introducing homemakers by their husbands’ names: today, it invites people of all ages and ethnicities to share their stories through food.

Yellowed clippings of the earliest Come Into My Kitchen columns, saved by Busby, tell the story not only of how American eating habits have changed, but also how people have lived.

A Six Can Casserole from the 1960s gives not a thought to a nutritional analysis of the recipe; that information now accompanies each column as a health tool for readers. Collected recipes range from simple pickled okra to showy Artichokes Au Vin Blanc and seemingly everything in between.

Readers continue to devour the columns because they get to step vicariously into other people’s kitchens, hear their stories and share their food, says Judith Fertig, the Overland Park freelance writer who wrote the column from 1998 until 2005.

“There’s a certain level of intimacy that happens when you come into someone’s kitchen,” she says. “Food is a way to tell a story, and it’s one to which we can all relate.”

The Come Into My Kitchen column has been brought to readers by a handful of documented female reporters. Laura Rollins Hockaday has the first byline for the column, on Oct. 9, 1967, and she eventually went on to retire from The Star as society editor in 2000.

A number of reporters in The Star women’s department were career-minded females who did not cook, so the assignment often was given to cub reporters without a byline, Busby says.

For Fertig, one of her most memorable columns was watching a woman grind her own grain for bread in Greenwood, Mo. “It was so exotic then, but it was so delicious,” she says. “That memory stuck with me and certainly informed my own baking.”

Recently Fertig, who has authored nearly 20 cookbooks to date, filmed an online class demonstrating how to grind whole-wheat flour for her own cinnamon roll recipe.

Judy Kirk of Kansas City held the apron strings of the column the longest. From 1978 until 1990, Kirk featured approximately 700 cooks and laments only the lack of a GPS navigational system when traveling to houses in unfamiliar areas.

“The wonderful thing about this column is that we, as writers, have been part of a person’s 15 minutes of fame,” she says. “I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve seen people frame the column in which they were featured. It feels good to be a part of that.”

In 1991, Kirk published “Kansas City’s Star Cooks,” a compilation of the best recipes she featured in the column that can currently be found new or used on Amazon for prices that range from $3.24 to $715.11. “We tested every one of those recipes, and when we had a reception for all the cooks featured in the book, I could still remember names and spending time in their kitchens,” she says. “Writing this column was a big part of my life and made me a better cook for my own family.”

Janet Majure of Lawrence wrote the column until 2007, for a total of 10 years, split between two tenures. She enjoyed the interviews and talking with people about cooking. “Food is a way in which culture and tradition are shared with others,” she says. “It’s also an active gateway to memory.”

Majure vividly remembers an outgoing Italian cook who lived in Olathe who gave her a list of names as potential cooks to be featured in the column. “Especially before the days of email, there could be a certain amount of anxiety in coming up with the next week’s cook for the column,” she says. “During my first tenure of writing the column, I had to have multiple recipes and take my own pictures using a camera and film.”

Majure compiled her favorite Come Into My Kitchen recipes into a book called “Recipes Worth Sharing.” She has also written technical books on Internet-related topics, but today her passion is teaching weightlifting to women, so they maintain their strength as they age (GiveMeStrength.net).

“The reason the column has been popular is because it is honest,” Young said in a 1974 interview. And Kirk has great hopes for the next generation of cooks.

Her granddaughter, Ashley Sanders, a writing major at Belmont University in Nashville, recently wrote about the power of Four Cheese Macaroni, a Come Into My Kitchen recipe that Kirk would prepare when family gathered. “This is an example of the power of food,” Kirk says over coffee recently. “Here’s to the next 60 years.”

Mary G. Pepitone is a freelance writer who lives in Leawood. She has been writing the Come Into My Kitchen column since 2007. Email her at pepi@kc.rr.com to nominate a cook.

Whole-Wheat Pumpkin Pecan Cinnamon Crowns

Makes 36

For the dough:

3/4 cup whole milk

1/4 cup honey or agave nectar

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs, beaten

1 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading

2 teaspoons vital wheat gluten or whole-grain dough improver (available at specialty baking stores)

2 1/2 teaspoons instant or bread machine yeast

For the filling:

1 (15-ounce) can pumpkin puree

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 large egg

For the topping:

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup packed light or dark brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup chopped pecans

1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened

To make the dough: In a 4-cup glass measure, combine milk, honey, vegetable oil and salt. Microwave on high temperature for 1 minute or until liquids are heated to 105 to 110 degrees when checked with an instant food-quality thermometer. Whisk in eggs and set aside.

Pour flours, gluten and yeast into the bowl of a stand mixer, fitted with the paddle attachment. Slowly pour in warm liquid. Mix on low speed for about 5 minutes or until a soft dough forms and pulls away from the sides the bowl.

Remove paddle attachment from mixer and switch to the dough hook attachment. With the mixer on low, start kneading the dough with the dough hook. Sprinkle dough with 1 tablespoon of flour, every minute or so, to keep it from sticking to sides of the bowl. After about 3 to 5 minutes, the dough will be kneaded enough when it is smooth, not sticky, and springs back to the touch.

Place the dough into a large, oiled mixing bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and allow to rise in a warm place for about an hour or until it has almost doubled.

To make the filling: In a large mixing bowl, whisk pumpkin, sweetened condensed milk and egg together until smooth. Set aside.

To make the topping: In a separate large mixing bowl, using a fork, combine the flour, sugars, cinnamon, salt and pecans together. Cut the butter into the dry mixture until it is well combined and forms a streusel topping. Set aside.

To assemble: Coat 36 muffin cups with nonstick cooking spray. Set aside.

Punch down dough and transfer to a lightly floured surface. Cut dough into four equal pieces. Roll each fourth of dough into a 9-inch square. Cut the dough into 9, 3-inch squares. Arrange squares in prepared muffin cups.

Place 1 tablespoon pumpkin filling and 2 teaspoons streusel in each dough-lined muffin cup. Cover with tea towels and allow to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour, or until almost doubled in size.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake for 15 to 17 minutes or until the crust is lightly browned and filling is firm.

Per serving: 149 calories (33 percent from fat), 6 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), 26 milligrams cholesterol, 22 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams protein, 99 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

Source: “I Love Cinnamon Rolls” by Judith Fertig, Andrews McMeel

Lemon Sugar Cookies

Makes 3 dozen

1/2 cup butter

1 cup sugar, plus more for topping

1 egg

1 egg yolk

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup lemon juice

Grated rind of 1 lemon

Cream butter and 1 cup sugar. Beat egg and yolk, and then stir into sugar mixture. Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Add portions alternately with lemon juice, beating after each addition. Mix in lemon rind. Place dough in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, or until chilled. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto greased cookie sheet.

Bake 10 minutes at 350 degrees, or until just a hint of brown at the edges. Sprinkle with sugar and remove from pan while hot.

Per cookie: 71 calories (38 percent from fat), 3 grams total fat (2 grams saturated), 18 milligrams cholesterol, 10 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 71 milligrams sodium, trace dietary fiber.

Source: Janet Majure

Four Cheese Macaroni

Makes 12 servings

1 (16-ounce) package elbow macaroni

1 cup milk

1 cup cottage cheese

3 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 1/3 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese, divided

1 1/3 cups grated Swiss cheese, divided

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Coat a 9-by-13-inch pan with nonstick cooking spray and set aside.

Prepare pasta to al dente stage, according to package directions. Drain pasta in colander placed in the sink and set aside.

Pour milk, cottage cheese, eggs, salt, pepper, dry mustard and ground nutmeg into the bowl of a blender and pulse until thoroughly combined. Set aside.

Place  1/3 cooked macaroni into the bottom of prepared pan. Top with  1/2 cup cheddar and Swiss cheeses. Layer another  1/3 of pasta into pan and top with another  1/2 cup cheddar and Swiss cheeses. Top with remaining pasta and pour blended mixture over all. Sprinkle remaining  1/3 cup cheddar and Swiss cheeses over all. Top with grated Parmesan cheese. Bake for 20 minutes until hot and bubbly.

Per serving: 296 calories (34 percent from fat), 11 grams total fat (6 grams saturated), 83 milligrams cholesterol, 31 grams carbohydrates, 18 grams protein, 457 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

Source: Jim Alspaugh, via Judy Kirk

This story was originally published November 3, 2015 at 3:00 AM with the headline "Come Into My Kitchen column celebrates 60 years of recipes from our readers."

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