Cityscape

New City Market eatery offers Hungarian goulash, eclairs, waffle sliders, whipped teas

Nearly a year ago, a City Market favorite was one of the first local eateries to close in the pandemic.

Beignet, a New Orleans-inspired bistro, shut down last April after seven years. On its Facebook page it said: “Happy trails to you until we meet again.”

That time has come.

Beignet founder Bryan Merker has opened a new operation, Le Chronic Cafe, just a few doors south at 419 Main St.

The quick-service cafe offers an eclectic menu. Entrees include Hungarian goulash (using his mother’s recipe, more of a soup than a stew and he adds quinoa), and mozzarella-stuffed meatloaf with smashed red potatoes. An Italian knot roll is served with each entree.

Le Chronic Cafe has Hungarian goulash using a family recipe. Entrees come with an Italian knot roll.
Le Chronic Cafe has Hungarian goulash using a family recipe. Entrees come with an Italian knot roll. Joyce Smith jsmith@kcstar.com

Cream puffs, eclairs, crepes and waffle sliders come with a choice of two fillings, including Nutella, sea salt caramel, honey-roasted nuts, mixed berries, lemon curd, caramelized peaches, and coconut cream. Candy bar fillings include Snickers cheesecake.

Le Chronic Cafe’s cream puffs, eclairs, crepes and waffle sliders come with a variety of fillings.
Le Chronic Cafe’s cream puffs, eclairs, crepes and waffle sliders come with a variety of fillings. Joyce Smith jsmith@kcstar.com

It also has ice cream, from cherry bordello to rocky road.

Favorites from the Beignet menu include gumbo, bourbon bread pudding and crepes. But not beignets, since the new spot does not have fryers and hood system.

For drinks, look for nitrogen coffee, Italian and cream sodas, whipped teas (the Whipped Chai has house chai, milk and whipped cinnamon broth) with a variety of flavor options. The “whip” is torch-fired, which made it a popular order during opening day Saturday.

The space is decorated with “oddities” — such as a painting of a green Elvis and floating mermaids in shadow boxes — with more coming. The artwork will be for sale, along with T-shirts, candles and tote bags.

“Part of me is, ‘Did I really do this to myself again,’” Merker said. “But so many people were coming in Saturday, saying we missed you. We had to come the first day. And we’re happy you’re here.”

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Saturday; and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. It is closed Mondays.

Bryan Merker, owner of the former Beignet in the City Market, has opened a new eatery, Le Chronic Cafe.
Bryan Merker, owner of the former Beignet in the City Market, has opened a new eatery, Le Chronic Cafe. Joyce Smith jsmith@kcstar.com
JS
Joyce Smith
The Kansas City Star
Joyce Smith covered restaurant and retail news for The Star from 1989 to 2023.
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