Opinion articles provide independent perspectives on key community issues, separate from our newsroom reporting.

Opinion

What’s KC’s best barbecue? In advance of World Cup, some favorites | Walker vs. Williams

A saucy plate of tender, smoky long-end ribs at LC’s Bar-B-Q on Kansas City’s East Side: Is it the best?
A saucy plate of tender, smoky long-end ribs at LC’s Bar-B-Q on Kansas City’s East Side: Is it the best? Emily Curiel ecuriel@kcstar.com

Editor’s note: Welcome to Double Take, a conversation in Star Opinion that tackles news with differing perspectives and respectful debate. Today, Opinion Editor Yvette Walker and Senior Opinion Columnist Mará Rose Williams discuss Kansas City barbecue.

Yvette Walker: Because Kansas City is so embedded with barbecue and its culture, the story of an acclaimed place like Harp Barbecue closing is huge news. Our news colleagues reported on its closure last week after starting as a pop-up in Raytown and moving to Overland Park. There were high hopes for the restaurant, and I, for one, was sad to hear it was shutting its doors before I had a chance to go.

And, with thousands of newcomers expected for World Cup 2026, many first-timers, it’s a good time to talk barbecue. If FIFA fans want a ‘cue tour, where should they go? Below, my colleague Mará Rose Williams and I give you our tips for a tour of KC barbecue.

First of all, you should know that I love barbecue — I’m a serious carnivore — so living and dining in KC is a no-brainer. When I moved back here in 2023, I admit part of it was to get back to barbecue culture. (Oklahoma barbecue is good, but it’s not Kansas City). My father, an unacclaimed Texas and Chicago pitmaster, raised me to appreciate good seasoning and good smoke.

When I move to a new city, I always try out the ‘cue, and any place that tastes close to my daddy’s barbecue gets my business. Here, it’s LC’s Bar-B-Q. I realize that’s not to everyone’s taste. I wrote about LC’s for a Let’s Dish column last year after Missouri Sen. Josh Hawley said he loved the ribs at Jack Stack’s best. I had to disagree. I wrote:

“When I bit down into that rib meat I was transported to the South Side of Chicago, my daddy’s kitchen and the ribs he served. It was the smoke, of course. Just the right amount imparts not only that amazing flavor, but makes the meat tender in a way that is different from those cooked on a grill or in the oven. Is there something wrong with this sentence? Daddy passed in 2007 and I have never tasted ribs like that again, until now.”

And it’s not just the ribs, but I also love LC’s barbecue beans, which are the perfect size and flavor. I generally just can’t eat the beans at other restaurants in KC. They’re too big and dense. What’s up with that?

With all this in mind, here’s my list of places for a World Cup tour:

Yvette Walker’s World Cup BBQ tour

LC’s Bar-B-Q: Get the ribs, long end style, and barbecue beans. 5800 Blue Pkwy, Kansas City, MO 64129. Opens weekdays at 11 a.m. Closed on Sundays.

Jack Stack Bar-B-Que: Get the Kansas City Combo and substitute at least one meat with ribs. Various locations downtown, Country Club Plaza, Overland Park, Lenexa, Lee’s Summit and Martin City.

Q39: Get the beef brisket and burnt ends combo and add a rib or two. Various locations in Midtown location, Overland Park and Lawrence. Opens at 11.

Gates: Go for the long end ribs. Try the various sauces from sweet to spicy. Various locations in Kansas City, Independence and Leawood. Opens at 11 a.m.

Joe’s Kansas City Barbecue: Get the ribs and burnt ends dinner (when available). Various locations in Kansas City, KS, Leawood and Olathe, but go to the gas station location in KCK.

I don’t mean to get into a take-down, drag-out fight here, but what’s your favorite ‘cue, Mará?

Backyard cookouts

Mará Rose Williams: I might be biting off a little bit more than I can chew getting into it with you on this one, because it sounds like your love of barbecue goes pretty deep.

But I’m a meat lover, too. I love me some good ribs — pork and beef. And yeah, smoke is important, but I’m looking for taste and tenderness. Q39 gets this carnivore’s vote hands down.

I remember as a kid growing up on Long Island in New York, and the summer was outdoor grilling time — you say barbecue, we say cookout. But it was mostly hamburger, hot dogs, chicken and potato salad. Barbecue ribs were special occasion fare. Mama’s ribs were delicious, and at that time, I didn’t think anyone could do them better. That is, until we moved to Kansas City.

Walker: I hear you. Kansas City has that real street cred when it comes to the ‘cue. And pork wins out over beef any day, in my opinion.

Williams: Being from New York, a pizza town, I came to Kansas City claiming no barbecue fame — fairly pure, and making no comparison to nostalgia. My late husband, who had lived in Kansas City before we moved here together with our kids, would brag about Arthur Bryant’s. That was his favorite.

Yeah, it’s good. But I’m not feeling the sauce there. I’m more fond of sweet and spicy.

One son is partial to Arthur Bryant’s, like his dad. But I had refused to settle on a favorite until I’d tried them all, at least all the big-name ones anyway.

To be honest, and that’s the point, I think the ribs at LC’s and Q39 are on par with one another. But I haven’t tasted a plate of burnt ends that can touch the burnt ends at Q39 — so tender and full of flavor. Bite into a chunk of that juicy meat, close your eyes and moan, savoring the deliciousness.

There’s a reason why the meat there is award-winning. I think it’s the rub, the smoke, time, temperature and patience — Angus beef aged 35 days, smoked cuts finished on a hot oak-fired grill, moisture and yes, a yummy char. Hot dang!

Yvette, I’m thinking there’s got to be a barbecue run in our future. Here’s my World Cup tour:

Mará Rose Williams’ World Cup BBQ tour

Q39: Go for the succulent burnt ends. Various locations in Midtown location, Overland Park and Lawrence. Opens at 11.

LC’s Bar-B-Q: Get the ribs and the barbecue beans. 5800 Blue Pkwy, Kansas City, MO 64129. Opens weekdays at 11 a.m. Closed on Sundays.

Arthur Bryant’s: Go because, well, you just have to. In the historic 18th & Vine Jazz District. 1727 Brooklyn Ave, Kansas City, MO 64127. Opens at 10 a.m., 11 on Sundays.

Gates: Go for the sweet-spicy sauce and the attitude (Yes, the staff still yells, “Hi, May I help you?” at customers.) Various locations in Kansas City, Independence and Leawood. Opens at 11 a.m.

F325 BBQ: Go for the plentiful plates. 1825 Buchanan St, North Kansas City, MO 64116. Opens at 11 a.m., closed Sundays.

Burnt ends versus ribs

Walker: I’m not going to argue with you on Q39’s burnt ends. I’d never tasted burnt ends until I moved to KC. That was not in Daddy’s backyard repertoire. But I have to take issue with your comparison of their ribs to LC’s. It does look like Q39 uses spareribs, not baby backs, according to their Midtown menu — just like LC’s — but I don’t know if they use the short or long ends. That makes a difference to me. Like I said, I’m a rib connoisseur.

Listen, I’ve tried them all. I was introduced to the sweet and spicy sauce of Gates when I first arrived here, Bryant’s, Joe’s when it only had the gas station location, and even pits in North KC and around the Riverfront. All except, sadly, Harp’s. I hope there is another pop-up in its future.

And yes, that barbecue run sounds great. Let’s set a date.

Wait a second: You mentioned New York being a pizza town. I grew up on the South Side of Chicago — the Chi — so you know what I think about Chicago deep dish versus New York style. Well, better not get into pizza comparisons today. Maybe we’ll leave that for another Double Take?

Yvette Walker
Opinion Contributor,
The Kansas City Star
Yvette Walker is The Kansas City Star’s opinion editor and leads its editorial board. She has been a senior editor for five award-winning news outlets. She was inducted into the Oklahoma Journalism Hall of Fame and was a college dean of journalism.
Mará Rose Williams
Opinion Contributor,
The Kansas City Star
Mará Rose Williams is The Star’s Senior Opinion Columnist. She previously was assistant managing editor for race & equity issues, a member of the Star’s Editorial Board and an award-winning columnist. She has written on all things education for The Star since 1998, including issues of inequity in education, teen suicide, universal pre-K, college costs and racism on university campuses. She was a writer on The Star’s 2020 “Truth in Black and White” project and the recipient of the 2021 Eleanor McClatchy Award for exemplary leadership skills and transformative journalism. 
Get unlimited digital access
#ReadLocal

Try 1 month for $1

CLAIM OFFER