Berbiglia’s Roost embraces two Kansas City traditions, fried chicken and barbecue

There’s a revival going on in Overland Park, led by veteran Kansas City restaurateur Gary Berbiglia who also happens to be an evangelist of sorts for fried chicken and barbecue.

Fans of Joe’s Restaurant & Barbeque and Joe’s Barn Restaurant will rejoice that Berbiglia, once a partner in those popular eateries from 1964 - 1982, chose to come out of retirement last August to open Berbiglia’s Roost at 8725 Metcalf Ave.

Also a partner in one of KC’s iconic barbecue joints from 1983- 2014, Arthur Bryant’s, Berbiglia’s newest venture seamlessly blends his two favorites —f ried chicken and barbecue—in an extensive menu that’s all about down-home food and nostalgia.

What Berbiglia’s Roost lacks in fancy décor— the pleasant, no-fuss 6,200-square-foot restaurant is engineered for efficient service — it makes up for in well-executed dishes that bring smiles to the faces of fried chicken and barbecue lovers throughout Johnson County and beyond.

“Retirement just wasn’t my thing,” Berbiglia admitted one night as he put a plate of Roost Classic Fried Chicken ($11.95 - $13.95) in front of me. “I had this concept to marry two of my all-time favorite foods.”

Berbiglia, whose lifelong passion for food was sparked when he was a youngster by his Italian grandmother’s cooking, cast a sweeping glance over the crowded dining room.

“And so, here it is,” said Berbiglia, whose director of operations is veteran KC restaurateur Steve Greer.

Tucking into the generous portion of crispy-crunchy chicken, alternating bites with the accompanying velvety Yukon gold mashed potatoes draped in gravy and my chosen side of country green beans, I’m immediately transported by the skillfully balanced flavors. Though I wasn’t living in Kansas City during Joe’s Barn heyday, I appreciate Berbiglia’s focus on the magical chicken dish, humble yet sparkling with comfort and my own recollections of Sunday dinners from childhood.

And, judging by the endless platters of fried chicken and old-fashioned variations, including chicken fried chicken and chicken fried steak ($12.75), that fast-moving servers shuttle past my table to other diners, I’m not alone in a stroll down Sunday dinner memory lane.

But Berbiglia’s doesn’t rest on its chicken laurels alone.: barbecue on its own and in combination with fried chicken commands a large part of the menu, The Chicken and ‘Q Wedding Plate ($15.95) is a delicious mash-up of burnt ends, thinly sliced house smoked sausage, two fried chicken legs or wings and a side. Opting for the bourbon-glazed carrots, I make quick work of one of the Roost’s signature entrees.

Barbecue aficionados enjoy a robust selection of Berbiglia’s smoked meat sandwiches (brisket, pulled pork, burnt ends, sliced sausage, sliced pork, ham or turkey, $11.95 - $15.95) and wood-smoked dinners, including St. Louis-cut spare ribs ($18.95 - $29.95). Two house-made barbecue sauces are available—Roost Original and Heat ‘n Honey.

My dining partner, in the mood for fried catfish, ordered Geoff’s Fried Catfish Filet. Served with cole slaw and tartar sauce ($12.95) and perfectly breaded and seasoned, the catfish was satisfying. But it was the cole slaw that received high marks.

“I like cole slaw that’s not overdressed,” he said, “and this is tasty.”

“Raise the Roost Salads” feature six options that range from traditional with a twist (Roost Garden with dried cranberries, $8.95) to grilled seafood (Pacific Wild Salmon, $12.95) and chicken (Rebecca’s Chicken Breast, fried or grilled, $10.95) to barbecue (Smoked Meat Combo, $13.95 or Burnt Ends, $13.95).

Berbiglia’s Roost, which also offers full bar service, pays homage to Kansas City’s love of a good steak with offerings like wood-fired rib eye (14 ounces, $23.95), twin filet mignon (two four-ounce filets wrapped in bacon ($22.95) and chopped sirloin (12 ounces, bacon wrapped, $18.95). There’s an array of half-pound wood-fired burgers, too (8.95 - $11.25), from plain Jane to one topped with mac-and-cheese.

Kids 11 and under can choose from chicken fingers, Nathan’s corn dog nuggets, grilled cheese sandwich and ribs ($5.75 - $6.95) that comes with a side, pudding and drink.

Forthright and authentic, Berbiglia’s Roost delivers exactly what Berbiglia promises in a personal note on his menu: quality all-American food, affordable prices, good service and clean surroundings. And in a town boasting two rich culinary traditions—fried chicken and barbecue—the restaurant is a palate-pleaser that strikes a harmonizing chord.

This story was originally published October 27, 2016 at 9:38 AM with the headline "Berbiglia’s Roost embraces two Kansas City traditions, fried chicken and barbecue."