Is some of the best KC-style BBQ in California? Why one spot is winning acclaim
Napa Valley isn’t known for its slabs of sauced meats.
That fact is one of the reasons Darryl Bell Jr. decided to open a barbecue restaurant in Wine Country. When the Kansas City native arrived on the scene several years ago, he was dismayed at the lack of options.
“The barbecue that I’m used to, it’s not out here,” Bell told The Star in a recent interview. “I thought Kansas City-style barbecue was kind of everywhere. … I knew it was something that was missing and needed to be done.”
So, he opened Stateline Road Smokehouse last year. Already, it’s made waves in the Napa area and beyond. Most recently, USA Today readers crowned it the best Kansas City-style barbecue restaurant as part of the publication’s 10Best series.
Stateline was the only restaurant outside the metro that made the list — and it snagged the No. 1 spot above the metro’s own. Rosedale Bar-B-Q, Slap’s, and Burnt End BBQ followed close behind.
How did a California city known for its fine-dining become home to a popular smokehouse? Bell himself is a little surprised at the path his life took.
Born and raised in the KC area, Bell spent his first 13 years in Independence. He moved to Cameron (north of Liberty) for two years before spending the rest of his time in the city’s urban core, near The Paseo. In his early teens, his father began experimenting with barbecue.
It was then that Bell learned he loved to cook and eventually decided he wanted to make a career of his hobby.
After receiving his culinary education from Johnson County Community College, he moved to France to further his fine dining restaurant experience. From there, he headed out to Napa to work in Michelin restaurants and did so for several years, cooking at places like Bouchon Bistro and Étoile.
“I moved to Napa only to work in fine dining,” Bell insisted. “Zero plans to do barbecue at all.”
But his longing to have proper Kansas City ‘cue in Napa persisted, so much so that his wife suggested he look into building his own place.
Bell admits that he dragged his feet a little. Though he appreciated his roots, he was a classically trained chef at serious restaurants. He worried it wouldn’t be a good fit for his talents.
“I fought it for a really long time,” he said.
Ultimately, Bell realized that great barbecue takes as much skill as any other style of cooking, even without the pretentiousness. He decided he could fuse his extensive knowledge of food and love for barbecue to create something Californians could get behind.
“That’s kind of the approach that I give to the barbecue here, is, staying true to my Kansas City roots … while also staying true to what I’ve learned out here in terms of culinary,” he said.
He calls it “Kansas City-inspired” barbecue more than Kansas City-style, as it has the typical markings of KC barbecue (burnt ends, tangy sauce) but it combines his previous cooking expertise.
That said, there’s no “frou-frou stuff,” Bell promised. It’s pulled pork, ribs, potato salad, mac ‘n cheese — what you would expect from a barbecue restaurant.
It’s not a fancy atmosphere, either. He decorated the space to be bright, light, casual and friendly. No need to dress up.
In the year Bell has been open, he says the response has been overwhelmingly positive. He was nominated for Best Chef in California 2025 by the James Beard Award Foundation.
His most popular dish, Kansas Citians will be glad to hear, are the burnt ends.
“If you’re gonna represent something out here that people aren’t used to, you have to make sure it’s done right.”
This story was originally published November 4, 2025 at 5:00 AM.