See how artisan cheese is made from sheep’s milk in downtown Kansas City
What do you do when you’re hit with a tidal wave of milk?
Make cheese of course.
Cheesemaking, at its core, is a method of preserving milk, transforming a perishable liquid into a diverse array of flavorful and texturally complex foods. This fundamental principle is vividly brought to life at the cheese kitchen of Green Dirt on Oak, located in downtown Kansas City.
Within the walls of Green Dirt on Oak lies part of their state-of-the-art cheesemaking facility. It shares the same building as Green Dirt’s restaurant. Here, thousands of gallons of fresh sheep’s milk are meticulously processed daily, resulting in a variety of distinctive cheeses.
Helen Cowan, the passionate and extremely knowledgeable Director of Dairy for Green Dirt Farm, is deeply involved in this process.
Initially, she might delve into the intricacies of cheese, discussing rinds, curds, and the “knit” of the cheese. However, recognizing that such terminology might be unfamiliar to the average person, she pauses with a laugh, “Let’s start with ‘Cheese 101. Cheese making is about preserving milk,” says Cowan.
The journey of cheesemaking at Green Dirt on Oak begins with the arrival of milk from their flock of approximately 120 sheep located at Green Dirt Farm near Weston, Missouri. Sheep are significantly less prolific milk producers compared to cows, yielding only about one-tenth the amount.
However, this milk possesses qualities that make it ideal for cheesemaking boasting a higher concentration of butterfats and proteins, which translates to a richer flavor and a considerably higher yield of cheese.
Green Dirt Farm operates as a truly artisan endeavor, with their sheep being a seasonal flock. They produce milk primarily from February to late October. The spring season marks their most significant period of production. During this time, Cowan describes a “milk tsunami,” an overwhelming abundance of milk that must be transformed into various types of cheese to preserve it.
The core process of making cheese is not particularly arduous. It commences with gently heating the milk. This crucial step accelerates the coagulation process, which is the separation of the milk into solid curds and liquid whey. Yes, like the stuff Little Miss Muffet ate while sitting on her “tuffet,” whatever that is.
The “curds and whey” she consumed were essentially a very basic form of cottage cheese.
To further separate the curd from the whey, the cheese team employs a pneumatic press. This press uses metal slats perforated with holes to exert pressure on the loose curds floating in the whey, a liquid that resembles regular milk but has a much thinner consistency. As the press compresses the curds, they begin to coalesce and “knit” together, gradually forming a more solid mass that visually and texturally bears a resemblance to tofu.
Once the press has completed its cycle, the whey is carefully drained from the large vat, leaving behind a large sheet of knitted milk curd. This curd is then cut into individual sections, and each section is placed into a cylindrical mold. These molds are also designed with holes to force the further expulsion of any remaining whey from the curd.
The molds, now filled with the pressed curd, are pressed again but overnight. This final pressing stage not only further solidifies the cheese but also imprints the distinctive Green Dirt sheep logo onto each formed wheel of cheese.
After this initial formation, each wheel of cheese starts the aging process that spans anywhere from six months to a full year. This maturation period is critical for the development of the cheese’s unique flavors and textures.
To ensure the consistent quality of their cheese throughout this aging process, Green Dirt on Oak has invested in state-of-the-art technology. Their facility features advanced air handling systems sourced from France, the undisputed cheese capital of the world, and includes positive air pressure systems which forces the air and potential contaminates away from the cheese. These sophisticated systems meticulously control the environment within the aging rooms, helping to maintain the consistency and quality that Green Dirt has become known for.
While the art of cheesemaking might seem straightforward, Green Dirt on Oak places major importance on safety throughout their operations.
As Cowan aptly states, “It’s not hard to make cheese, it’s hard to make cheese consistently well.”
Green Dirt also produces cheese at their creamery location in Weston. Their cheeses can be purchased at their Weston and Kansas City locations, select grocers and on their company website.
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This story was originally published May 6, 2025 at 5:00 AM.
