A new kind of non-alcoholic bar is coming to the Kansas City area. ‘An experience’
Wes Straight pulls a tub of murky liquid from the fridge, then ladles some into a steel bowl the size of his palm.
“Shells up. Bula,” he says, raising his drink and reciting the Fijian version of “cheers.” He takes a sip.
Many people in the Midwest haven’t tried kava: a calming pepper root drink that originates from the South Pacific Islands. There aren’t many kava houses nearby — not like there are in California and Florida.
At the end of the month, Deviant Kava will open at 405 Main St. in Parkville. While some area shops sell kava products, his “non-alcoholic bar,” as Straight described it, will be the first of its kind in the area.
A large part of the appeal of a kava house is the atmosphere, Straight said. A social bar without sloppy stumbling and raucous patrons, or a coffee house-type atmosphere for remote employees.
The drink has been part of Pacific Islander culture for thousands of years, often used as a part of social gatherings and tribal ceremonies.
Straight expects it to catch on in the Kansas City area.
“I’m pretty confident,” he said. “I’ve seen what it can do, and I’ve seen how much people like it.”
Hesitant to sample kava? That’s OK, too. Deviant Kava will sell espresso drinks, mocktails, kombucha and tea. Exact hours are to be decided, but the shop will be open from the morning to late at night. Kava is an all-day type of drink.
Straight managed Grassroots Kava House in Tampa, where he met his partners, Taylor Ryan and Alex Quaglieri.
Together, the trio are hoping to bring a Florida favorite to Kansas City. Ryan and Quaglieri are still in Tampa.
To create the vibey kava house experience, the partners are renovating a 120-year-old home in the downtown Parkville area. They’re in the process of throwing up wallpaper, converting the basement and putting in seating upstairs, where a baby grand piano lives.
Before Deviant Kava moved in, Wines by Jennifer operated in the old house for 20 years.
Here’s the thing: At first sip, a lot of people don’t like the taste of kava by itself.
Without mixers and add-ins, it has a distinctly earthy flavor. Fans are into it for the healthy benefits and calming effects. It’s a social lubricant and will give the drinker a mild euphoric feeling — “but that’s subjective,” Straight said — without a high or a buzz. (So yes, you’re safe to drive after.)
Creative drinks with syrups and fruit juice balance out the taste. Some people mix it into their cold brew.
“It’s like a social lubricant, it just doesn’t inebriate you at all,” Straight said. “We’re selling an experience, we’re not selling a product.”
Straight gives new customers the same spiel and encourages them to try it in a mixed drink. Many are drawn to the community of the kava house and end up coming back for more.
Like coffee, many newbies start with all the add-ins. Straight used to drink it with oat milk and blueberry. Now he takes it “black” and drinks it all day.
With the rise of sober 20-somethings, Deviant Kava is looking to be a space for non-drinkers to socialize. It will host bingo, trivia nights and live music. No alcohol will be served.
The historic home is larger than it looks on the outside. Its spacious patio and balcony will open up even more social opportunities.
And many more Fijian cheers to come, Straight hopes.