Kokothai in Crossroads, formerly S-E Asia Bistro, is second try for owner

Two years ago, Steve “Koko” Srivisay took over a spot at 1513 Grand Blvd. for S-E Asia Bistro.

He put all his savings into it and money his family invested — more than $200,000. Some of that money went to installing equipment, and then having to pay out more when it was incorrectly installed. So an $18,000 range hood became a $50,000 hood.

After a year he ran out of money and walked away. Another restaurateur took over the spot, made more repairs and offered to bring Srivisay back as a partner.

But he said it was just too painful.

The other restaurant, Mi Asia, only lasted a few months so the landlord convinced Srivisay to give it another go.

“I’m back from the dead,” he said Friday.

He’s starting fresh with a new decor, a new name, Kokothai, and a new menu with Thai and Lao cuisine.

Menu items will include Thai crab Rangoons, spring rolls (prawns and barbecue pork wrapped with noodles and fresh herbs with peanut sauce), salmon spring rolls (grilled salmon with noodles and fresh herbs, then served with sweet chili fish sauce), grilled beef salad wraps, and Thai hot and sour soup.

Some of the most popular items are expected to be: Koko’s Crispy Garlic Chicken (chicken breast deep fried then wok-tossed with bell peppers and basil, in a garlic-basil sauce), and dishes using fresh house-made noodles, like the Bangkok Noodle (handmade flat noodles, wok-tossed with egg, Chinese broccoli and broccoli with a rich gravy).

It also will serve such specialties as Red Curry Chicken (chicken thighs stewed in red curry, coconut creme, potatoes, bamboo, basil, bell peppers and carrots), and 5Spice Pork Belly with Stewed Egg (pork belly stewed in a 5-spice broth reduction and served with bok choy and a hard-boiled egg).

He plans to have a soft opening later this month. But first he will check with his monk to select the most auspicious day.

Srivisay said the spot on Grand has long supported Thai cuisine.

Indeed. Willy Cafe opened there in 1981, serving Chinese and Thai cuisine. The owners sold the restaurant in 2000 but then came back two years later to open Thai Paradise before putting it up for sale in 2009.

Srivisay learned to cook from his mother, a native of southern Laos. He attended culinary school in Los Angeles before going on a three-month food tour of Southeast Asia in 2012.

He grew up in the Kansas City area, and most of his family still lives here.

“Even when the opportunity came around the second time my girlfriend and my family were so supportive,” Srivisay said. “I was really nervous getting back into it. The first experience was such a headache. All I wanted to do was cook, not deal with the construction. But my girlfriend gave the motivation to come back and fight to cook again.”

This story was originally published April 1, 2016 at 6:28 PM with the headline "Kokothai in Crossroads, formerly S-E Asia Bistro, is second try for owner."