‘A game changer in the Midwest’: Praise pours in as Bluestem restaurant decides to close

Nearly two decades ago, 20-something newlyweds set out to open an approachable fine-dining restaurant in Westport.

Bluestem would focus on local and Midwestern ingredients, labor-intensive dishes uncommon in Kansas City — foie gras terrine with Sauternes gelée, wild Columbia River sturgeon, and Meyer lemon bar brulee with raspberry caramel and sweet cream — with menu items changing seasonally.

Bluestem’s success was immediate, followed by numerous accolades over the years from the prestigious James Beard Foundation and others.

Now owners Colby and Megan Garrelts are not renewing the lease at 900 Westport Road and will close the restaurant on Dec. 19.

The restaurant was “a game changer in the Midwest,” said Ryan Brazeal of Novel restaurant in the Crossroads. Brazeal was just starting his career when Bluestem opened.

“No one here was doing contemporary food like Colby and Megan were back then,” he said. “He had a salmon and short rib dish with horseradish foam that blew my mind as a young cook.”

Colby Garrelts said it was the right timing to close.

“We were ready. We knew at the beginning of the year we weren’t going to sign a new lease and then COVID happened and it was a no-brainer,” Colby said. “We thought we had an exposed employee a couple of weeks ago and closed for the whole weekend. We didn’t, but a small restaurant like this, we could be done for weeks if something like that happened.”

The Garrelts confirmed the closing in a Facebook post on Tuesday, and fans responded:

“My wife and I had one of the best anniversary dinners we’ve ever had at Bluestem. Special night, special memory. Breaks my heart to see this happen to so many local great places like this.” And: “When I was diagnosed with stomach cancer, my wife and I did the ‘Stomach Farewell Tour.’ We had great meals at all of our favorite restaurants thinking I could not enjoy great food again. The last meal was Bluestem where chef created an amazing meal. ... God I will miss this place.”

Before tying the knot, the couple worked together at restaurants in Chicago, Las Vegas and Los Angeles — under James Beard Award-winning chefs.

They married in October 2003, and the next day their offer to take over the Westport restaurant space was accepted. They opened Bluestem there in March 2004. Megan focused on pastries, front-of-the-house operations and the wine list; Colby helmed the kitchen. It had just 14 seats and eight employees.

By that summer, a Kansas City Star reviewer said, “every meal over the course of four visits was a multi-sensory experience.”

Colby had previously worked with James Beard Award-winning chef Michael Smith at the American Restaurant.

After the Garrelts built up a reputation in Chicago, Smith said the conventional next step would be to use that reputation to attract investors for their own venue.

Instead, they came home to Kansas City, taking a spot in Westport for cheaper rent but then having to draw customers to the area with few surrounding parking spaces. Smith remembers the buzz for Bluestem.

“They came home to do it here and Kansas City welcomed them,” he said.

The Garrelts did a grassroots public relations campaign, peppering local and national press with their menus and photos of their artfully plated dishes.

“We read constantly, we studied constantly. Talked to farmers. Traveled constantly to visit other restaurants. That’s common now but it wasn’t then,” Colby said.

Smith said seasonal menus also were uncommon in the metro since regulars would complain that their favorite dish was no longer on the menu. They have created thousands of seasonal dishes over the last 17 years.

The couple expanded with a lounge next door in 2006, did a major remodeling in 2014, and also published a Bluestem cookbook.

Food & Wine Magazine honored Bluestem with a Best New Chef award in 2005.

The restaurant also has received numerous accolades from the James Beard Foundation — seven Best Chef Midwest nominations and one award; nominations for Outstanding Chef, Outstanding Pastry Chef, Outstanding Restaurant.

Business Insider put it on its “best restaurant in every state” for Missouri in 2017.

But now the Garrelts want to spend more time with their children — Madi, 13, and Colin, 10 —and focus on their Rye restaurants on the Country Club Plaza and in Leawood, as well as explore possible new projects.

The 15 Bluestem employees were offered positions at the Rye restaurants.

“Our most cherished memories will forever be the relationships we’ve made through Bluestem — with our staff, past and present; our guests; and our local community, Kansas City,” they said in an email to customers to announce the closing.

They’ve watched their children run around the restaurant as they were growing up. They’ve hosted numerous celebrations there — Valentine dates, engagements, weddings, new babies, holiday parties, wine dinners, tea parties, guest chef dinners, surprise parties, corporate toasts and other milestones.

“We’re going to miss it,” Colby said. “But food at that level, service at that level, it’s a lot of hard work. I’m an older man now. I was 28 and Megan was 23 when we opened. At least we can walk away with our heads held high.”

This story was originally published November 25, 2020 at 12:21 PM.