Dave Eckert shares some of his favorite domestic white and red wines for winter

Mid-January is not my favorite time of the year. The days are short, the nights long, and the light and joy of the holidays is an increasingly distant memory. There just doesn’t seem to be much to look forward to.

That is, until I head down to my wine cellar and view the lovely red and white wines available to match up to winter’s heartier fare.

Yes, I said reds and whites because although I drink dramatically more red wine than white in the cooler months, I believe there are wines of both colorations that qualify for winter quaffing.

Here are some of my preferred domestic winter white and red wine selections.

Domestic whites

I was introduced to a host of domestic white wines in 2018. Wines from Washington State and the California appellations of Santa Lucia Highlands and San Luis Obispo made the strongest impressions on my palate.

Syncline Gruner Veltliner, Washington State ($19.99). Produced from two of the state’s cooler climate regions, Syncline’s Gruner Veltliner was a revelation for me. Gruner, a grape native to Austria and one growing in popularity, can achieve Sauvignon Blanc-like levels of acidity while producing fresh fruit flavors and lovely, soft floral notes. In the hands of Syncline, a Gruner specialist that’s been bottling Gruner Veltliner since 2008, the wine achieves all that and more.

L’Ecole No. 41 Semillon, Columbia Valley ($15). Like the Gruner before it, this Semillon was a pleasant surprise. Semillon is best known as the blending grape to the dominant Sauvignon Blanc in the production of white Bordeaux. There, the grapes combine their strengths: Sauvignon providing the acidity and earthiness, and Semillon filling the palate with ripe fruit and the nose with floral notes. On its own, Semillon can be a bit flabby. Not so here as L’Ecole’s version brims with layers of apple and melon flavors framed by just the right amount of natural acidity.

Hahn Family Wines Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands ($25). I traveled to Monterey County’s Santa Lucia Highlands in 2018 and spent much of my time visiting and tasting with Hahn Family Wines. While I am a huge fan of Hahn’s Pinot Noirs, their Chardonnays are not to be overlooked. This wine, the perfect introduction to the SLH Chardonnays, walks a lovely tightrope between leaner, more acidic Chardonnays and hedonistic fruit bombs. It’s a reminder that California Chardonnays don’t have to taste like butter and wood.

Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Blanc, Paso Robles ($25). Continuing down the coast to Paso Robles, let me introduce you to perhaps my favorite domestic winery, Tablas Creek. A joint venture between the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel fame and the Perrin’s importer, Robert Haas, Tablas Creek is a Rhone grape specialist. After tasting dozens of their wines, I’ve never had a bottle I didn’t enjoy. I especially like Tablas’ Patelin de Tablas bottlings, the winery’s mid-range offerings. The wines, red, white and rose, offer layers of complexity and elegance, terrific varietal flavors and aromas, and a great bang for the buck.

Verdad Albarino, Sawyer-Lindquist Vineyard, Edna Valley ($25). Nestled within the San Luis Obispo appellation, the Edna Valley is home to some stunning wines. This is one that blew me away. I had no idea an Albarino, native to Northern Spain, could have this much character outside its home region. Verdad, which means “truth” in Spanish, is in the capable hands of Louisa Sawyer-Lindquist. Certified biodynamic, Sawyer-Linquist’s wines go from strength to strength. Her Albarino is my favorite of the bunch. With an undeniable minerality and citrus overtones, the wine is crisp, bone dry and stunningly complex.

Domestic red, light to medium-bodied

I always seem to gravitate to Pinot Noir in the fall and winter. It’s such a versatile grape than can be made in so many different styles —from light and delicate to earthy and complex. Here are some of my favorite domestic bottlings.

Benziger Monterey Pinot Noir ($20). This Pinot delivers some of the best value around. From the notably cooler climes of Monterey County, the wine is layered with silky tannins, fruit and spice and buttressed by lovely, mouth-cleansing acidity. This is the first vintage of this wine from Benziger. I hope to taste many more!

Kenwood Six Ridges Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($30). Kenwood has always been more of a Cabernet Sauvignon house to me. Their Jack London bottling, in particular, springs to mind. But this wine really captures the spirit of Russian River Valley Pinot, which is to say, gobs of sweet, luscious fruit. The strawberries and cherries hit you in waves as the wine washes over your palate.

Dutcher Crossing Chenoweth Vineyard Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($46). Then there is this Russian River Beauty. Loaded with all of the fruit you’d expect in a RRV Pinot, this wine also has the complexity and elegance normally reserved for red Burgundies. To my palate, the Chenoweth Vineyard Pinot, while delicious now, will age and improve for 10 years or more.

Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($30). This Pinot is a great introduction to the Pinots of the Santa Lucia Highlands, which are generally fuller-bodied and higher in alcohol than most California Pinot Noirs. What I enjoy about SLH Pinots in general, and this one in particular, is the fact that they maintain all the qualities I love in Pinot — just in a bigger, bolder package.

Domestic red, full-bodied

Michael David Petite Petit, Lodi ($18). I’m not generally a big fan of Petite Sirah, but this winery turns out a very good version. A blend of 85 percent Petite Sirah and 15 percent Petite Verdot, this wine is perfect for a hearty roast on the dinner table and a last glass by the fire.

Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($32). Loaded with everything you want in a Napa Cab — ripe, dark red fruit, hints of spice, soft, approachable tannins, a velvety mouthfeel, and a long, lingering finish, the Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon is just what the doctor ordered this winter!

Beringer Bros. Bourbon Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($18.99). Finally, on the domestic side, a bourbon barrel aged Cabernet Sauvignon. All the rage these days, this bourbon barrel Cab comes from Cabernet masters Beringer Brothers. With notes of black cherry, toffee dark chocolate and roasted nuts, this wine is layered, complex and a real mouthful.

Well, there you go, plenty of white and red wines to get you through those long, dark, cold nights. Cheers!

This story was originally published January 14, 2019 at 7:00 AM.