Artisanal Thanksgiving 2014: Warm Butternut Squash & Kale Salad
JOHN SMITH | Pig & Finch in Leawood
When Smith arrived at Pig & Finch, there was a “boring” Caesar salad lingering on the menu. So he set to work creating a new salad, one that he could change up according to the seasons.
On the menu now: his popular Warm Butternut Squash & Kale Salad, which displays all the colors and flavor highlights of the holiday season: red wine-soaked cranberries, toasted walnuts and bright orange roasted squash dressed with fennel seed, all topped with a creamy cider-vinegar dressing with a hint of maple syrup.
Smith, who grew up on the South Side of Chicago as the only boy among five sisters and his mother, rarely got near a stove when he was young. His mom preferred to send him outside to play football. Then somebody told him: “If you can cook, you can go anywhere in the world.”
The toasted fennel seed takes Smith back to a squash bisque flavored with anise he had while working in France. Those “taste memories” are a guide in the kitchen, and many of his most vivid and cherished memories come from his Southern-born mom, who always included mac and cheese, ham, cornbread, sweet potato pie and other traditional Southern specialties on the Thanksgiving table.
His motto for the Thanksgiving feast is the same as for everyday cooking: “It’s not about all this experimental stuff thrown on a plate. You can make it good with three ingredients.”
Take roasting vegetables, for example: You choose how long to cook them. If you want color for your salad, cook them less. If you want deep flavors, cook them until the natural sugars caramelize.
Warm Butternut Squash & Kale Salad
Makes 12 servings
For the cranberries:
1 1/2 cups red wine
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
2 cups dried cranberries
For the vinaigrette:
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 1/2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon diced shallots
1 tablespoon fresh thyme
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 cup canola oil
Kosher salt and pepper, to taste
For the squash:
1 cup walnut pieces
4 tablespoons fennel seed
2 1/2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
For the salad:
6 to 8 cups baby kale
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper, to taste
Parmesan cheese, shaved, for the garnish
To make the cranberries: Place wine, vinegar and cranberries in a medium saucepan over low heat. Allow the liquid to come to a simmer with bubbles just breaking the surface, then turn off the heat. Allow cranberries to soak for an hour. When ready to use, drain cranberries, saving the liquid for another use such as braising or salad dressings, and set aside. (Make ahead tip: These cranberries will keep for at least a week.)
To make the dressing: In a blender, combine vinegar, mayonnaise, maple syrup, shallots, thyme and mustard on low speed, slowly adding canola oil until smooth and well blended. Stir in salt and pepper to taste. (Make ahead tip: Keeps in the refrigerator for up to a week.)
To make the squash: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
Arrange walnut pieces on a baking sheet in a single layer and toast for 8 to 10 minutes, checking frequently so they do not burn.
Toast the fennel seed in a small skillet placed over low heat until the seeds become fragrant; allow to cool, then blend in a spice grinder. (Make ahead: Toast nuts and fennel ahead of time.)
Place squash cubes in a large mixing bowl and coat well with melted butter, canola oil, fennel powder and sage. Season with salt and pepper and transfer squash to baking sheet and roast for 40 to 50 minutes, or until fork-tender. Allow to cool until squash is warm but not hot enough to wilt the salad greens. (Make ahead tip: Roasted vegetables keep well; warm in the oven or microwave before serving.)
To assemble the salad: In a salad or mixing bowl, put kale, cranberries and walnuts and season with salt and pepper. Add about 1/4 cup of the dressing, adding more if needed. Toss in squash, coating and checking for seasoning. Scatter Parmesan shavings on top and serve immediately.
Per serving: 282 calories (12 percent from fat), 24 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 11 milligrams cholesterol, 16 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 32 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber.
This story was originally published November 18, 2014 at 2:00 AM with the headline "Artisanal Thanksgiving 2014: Warm Butternut Squash & Kale Salad."