Artisanal Thanksgiving 2014: Roasted Pumpkin and Pear Soup
JOSH EANS | Happy Gillis Cafe & Hangout in Columbus Park
Eans doesn’t wear a chef’s coat to work anymore. He prefers a stylish apron. Like the one made by Top Chef winner Paul Qui’s fiancee Deana Saukam; it has pockets and isn’t made of such heavy fabric that it pulls on his neck.
The sartorial change reflects a deliberate and dialed-back lifestyle: After working as sous chef at the American Restaurant, Eans and his wife, pastry chef Abbey-Jo Eans, bought Happy Gillis last December and moved into the apartment above the cafe with their children ages 8, 3 and 19 months. The move has allowed them to live and work in the same community. (Abbey’s pumpkin whoopie pie recipe is on Page 5.)
Simple but delicious soups, salads and sandwiches are the mainstays of the Happy Gillis menu, and Eans’ use of fresh pumpkin for this soup is designed to be delicious but hassle-free. “A good way to handle (hard winter) squash is to just leave it whole,” he says.
The pumpkin is halved and roasted so the flesh is easy to scoop. The combination of roasted pumpkin and pear combine for a delicately flavored puree that can be prepared ahead.
“I think soups in general are better the next day when the flavors have had a chance to marry,” Eans says.
Roasted Pumpkin and Pear Soup With Apple Relish and Bacon
Makes 12 to 16 servings
1 (2- to 3-pound) pie pumpkin or butternut squash, cut in half, seeds scooped out and reserved
3 pears, peeled, cut in half and cored
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
4 fresh thyme sprigs
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed with a knife
1 yellow onion, diced
1 large carrot, diced
1 rib celery, diced
1/2 fennel bulb, diced
3 strips bacon, cut into chunks
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1-inch knob of ginger, peeled and grated
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Zest and juice of 1 orange
1/2 cup white wine
1/4 cup maple syrup
1 quart chicken stock or vegetable broth, plus more to thin soup
1 cup heavy whipping cream, plus more to thin soup
Optional garnishes: Apple relish, bacon and/or pumpkin seeds
To make the soup: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line 2 baking trays with parchment paper and set aside.
Place pumpkin and pear on a baking sheet. Drizzle olive oil over all and generously season with salt and pepper using hands to evenly coat. Turn pumpkin and pears cut side down on baking tray. Divide and tuck thyme and garlic under pumpkin. In a mixing bowl, toss onion, carrot, celery and fennel and season with a drizzle of olive oil and salt and pepper; spread mixture on the other baking tray.
Roast vegetables until the pumpkin is blistered and soft and the onion mixture is lightly caramelized, about 40 to 50 minutes. Remove vegetables from the oven and allow to cool completely. Discard thyme and garlic. Scoop flesh of pumpkin and place with pears and onion mixture in a food processor. Pulse, in batches if necessary, to create a very smooth puree.
In a large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium-low heat, cook bacon until crispy; remove from the pot and reserve. Add garlic, ginger and red pepper flakes and cook until very fragrant, about 1 minute. Add in juice, zest and wine, scraping to incorporate any brown bits, and cook 10 minutes to reduce liquid. Add vegetable puree, syrup, broth and cream. Bring the soup to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes to marry the flavors.
Strain soup through a hand strainer for a finer texture. If soup is too thick, thin with additional stock and/or cream. (Make-ahead tip: Soup may be made two to three days ahead; keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator.)
Garnish with bacon bits, apple relish or pumpkin seeds. (Make-ahead tip: Garnishes may be made ahead of time. Store relish in the refrigerator)
▪ Apple relish: Toss together 2 finely diced Fuji apples with skin on along with 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley and 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon.
▪ Pumpkin seeds: Wash and dry pumpkin seeds. Toss in a bowl with olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake in a 275 degree oven for 35 to 45 minutes, stirring often so they do not burn.
Per serving, based on 12: 307 calories (57 percent from fat), 20 grams total fat (8 grams saturated), 29 milligrams cholesterol, 30 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams protein, 767 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber.
This story was originally published November 17, 2014 at 6:00 AM with the headline "Artisanal Thanksgiving 2014: Roasted Pumpkin and Pear Soup."