Chow Town

At Peanches, a quiet, fine-dining outpost, walk-ins are now welcome (again)

Braised beef neck with potato puree. Double garlic hen breast. Missoura crab cakes (with typically more crab than filler).

Peanches

, the quiet little outpost with outstanding regional food made by

Pete Peterman

, is now serving walk-ins for dinner. After a period of offering reservations-only, fixed-price dinners, Peterman’s place now has an a la carte menu, including a changing lineup of dishes like those above. Prices, on a typical menu, range from $7 salads to a $33 KC strip.

About that fixed-price menu: At four small-plate courses for $32 a person (wine pairings are extra), it makes for an attractive, value-priced meal in the realm of fine dining. But if you’re a food adventurer you might also be tempted by supplemental courses, as we were at a dinner Tuesday night.

For $11 our birthday party of three shared a plate of butter poached Maine lobster tail, served with spinach and polenta (pictured) and we also downed a plate of silky foie gras, served atop a honey-fried cornbread (an extra $10). The other dishes included a little salad of Lillet-poached lobster, cod and prawns; hen breast with quinoa, beets and “infant” portabello, back strap and beef cheek with potato puree (see photo) and, for dessert, a chocolate-coffee torte.

And don’t let me forget the bottomless serving of Peterman’s excellent bread, which he bakes daily.

Peterman also now serves lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Wednesday-Friday.

When I

reviewed

Peanches in January (three-and-a-half stars), I noted that its location, at 900 W. 39th St., in an isolated strip center west of Southwest Trafficway, might be challenging, as was its somewhat idiosyncratic style.

But, once again, I don’t care about that. This is a place deserving more diners. The food rules.

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