Chow Town

Missouri cheeses do well at national competition

A wedge of Brabander
A wedge of Brabander Special to The Kansas City Star

There has been a lot of cheese news this month. Some good, some bad and all delicious … when it comes to the cheese, at least.

There are few things you need to know if you are into fermented milk products.

Missouri cheesemakers recently won awards at the American Cheese Society competition.

Second Place, Flory’s Truckle, Homestead Creamery, Jamesport, Mo. (Cheddar Wrapped in Cloth, Linen — Aged over 12 months — All Milks)

Third Place, Only Ewe Blueberry Rosemary Yogurt, Green Dirt Farm, Weston. (Yogurt and Cultured Products with Flavor Added)

Third Place, Only Ewe Maple Yogurt, Green Dirt Farm, Weston. (Yogurt and Cultured Products with Flavor Added)

Third Place, Bloomsdale, Baetje Farms, Bloomsdale. (Goat’s Milk Cheese Aged 31 to 60 Days)

Third Place, Marinated Feta, Baetje Farms, Bloomsdale. (Cheeses Marinated in Liquids and Ingredients — Made From Goat’s Milk)

Second Place, Franklin Island Feta, Goatsbeard Farm, Harrisburg. (Feta — Made From Goat’s Milk)

Support these local Missouri producers.

No Rush Creek Reserve for you

We recently got word that one of the most celebrated American cheeses is not going to be made this year. The culprit? Uncertainties about regulations that many have been saying will change soon.

Rush Creek Reserve is a washed-rind cheese wrapped in a belt of wood. As it ages, the cheese becomes runnier and creamier.

The rumors about eminent changes to the 60-day rule by the FDA have made Uplands Cheese, the makers of Rush Creek Reserve, pull the plug for the year.

Rush Creek is made with raw milk, and the 60-day rule allows that cheeses can be made with raw milk as long as they are aged longer than 60 days.

With this long-standing FDA rule in question, Uplands does not want to start production and then have the FDA change the rule or even ban raw-milk cheese altogether, leaving Uplands with cheese it can’t sell.

The current climate of regulatory uncertainty is not good for artisanal cheesemakers and it is not good for artisanal cheese lovers, either.

Brabander Goat Gouda

If you’re into Gouda and you like goat’s milk you need to try Brabander from l’Amuse. This smooth and dense Gouda packs a lot of favor. Made in North Brabant a southern province of the Netherlands, Brabander is made with the milk of Saanen Goats from local herds.

The best cheeses are then selected to be aged underneath the l’Amuse cheese shop northwest of Amsterdam. They age the wheels at higher-than-normal temperatures, giving the cheeses deeper and more complex flavors then your average Gouda. The cheeses are aged for six to nine months in these conditions.

Underneath the snow-white coating of wax you find the paste of the cheese to be the same stark white. The flavor is sweet and nutty with a finish of caramel. Still there is just enough salt to balance out the sweet milky flavor.

We are featuring Brabander at The Better Cheddar, so come see us for a taste.

Lincoln Broadbooks loves cheese. He is one of the first cheesemongers in the United States and Canada to become an American Cheese Society Certified Cheese Professional. He is the manager and buyer for The Better Cheddar in Prairie Village. You can find him on Twitter @LincolnBbooks and on Instagram @lincycheese.