The Food Issue

Chef Patrick Quillec provides a taste of his mother’s crêpe recipe

A traditional French crepe with ham, egg and cheese, known as La Complete.
A traditional French crepe with ham, egg and cheese, known as La Complete. The Kansas City Star

Travelers to the French region of Brittany know the charms of the region’s crêpes and hard cider.

In ancient-looking crêperies with low doorways, beamed ceilings and long community tables with benches worn buttery soft, a typical dinner might be a savory crêpe (called a galette) filled with garlic and snails as an appetizer; a ham-and-cheese galette as the main; and a sweet crêpe sprinkled with Grand Marnier and sugar for dessert. To wash it down: a blue-and-white stoneware pitcher of sparkling, crisp hard cider.

Fortunately for Kansas City, Patrick Quillec, owner of Café Provence and French Market in Prairie Village, hails from Brest, a large port city in Brittany. On Saturday mornings only, from 9:30 a.m to 1:30 p.m., you can taste his mother’s authentic recipe for sweet and savory crêpes at French Market.

Quillec’s daughter, Sofi, presides over the flat griddle, twirling a wooden tool called a rozell to spread the batter. When the edges brown to crispy lace, she flips the crêpe with a long, thin spatula, adds the fillings and folds the sides over like an envelope.

Our favorite of the sweet offerings is the simple Citron (freshly squeezed lemon juice and sugar, $5). The La Complete (ham, cheese, egg, $9) makes a lovely breakfast or brunch option.

You can get the crepes to go, but that would be a shame. They are best eaten piping hot off the griddle, so squeeze in at the small table in front of the shop or on the sidewalk if the weather is mild, and get a bottle of nonalcoholic cider from Brittany ($8 for 750 milliliters) from the refrigerator case to wash it down.

French Market crêpes: 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Saturdays only at 6947 Tomahawk Road, Prairie Village; 913-362-0803;; Facebook