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Posted on Wed, Oct. 21, 2009 10:39 PM
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The Drop Bar and Bistro

The Drop, in a historic brick building at 409 E. 31st St., has a clubby dining room that features a chandelier made of wine glasses.
JOHN SLEEZER | THE KANSAS CITY STAR
The Drop, in a historic brick building at 409 E. 31st St., has a clubby dining room that features a chandelier made of wine glasses.
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I'd been hoping to check out the Drop: Bar and Bistro for a while now. A friend recently told me, “I never expected such fancy food on Martini Corner. It’s a lot more than bar food.”

So on a recent Saturday night, just as the autumn chill was starting to make al fresco dining a little less tempting, four of us gathered to put that high praise to the test.

Each of us had been in the historic brick building on 31st Street just west of Gillham during other restaurants’ tenures there, but none of us had sampled the Drop’s menu, which was revamped recently by new chef Kelli Daniels.

We started out with a round of drinks (a Diet Coke for the designated driver) and then made our way to the dining room, a comfortable space separated from the bar by a row of empty window frames.

The room is clubby and dark, not dim, with a whimsically clever chandelier of wine glasses suspended upside down from a tiered metal frame.

“I have boxes of glasses from Costco in the basement,” said a friend who’s known for his craftiness. “I should make one of those for my dining room.”

We took our seats at the black-lacquered table and perused the menu, which was surprisingly lengthy for an establishment that clearly caters to the cocktail crowd.

Chef Daniels said she set out to remake the Drop’s menu with an eye toward streamlining the already-established favorites.

“When I first got here, the food was all across the board — you could get a Cuban sandwich and hummus,” she said. “My question to myself was, ‘Where does my cooking fit into this concept?’ ”

The Drop’s bill of fare is divided into five main sections: starters, “spoon and fork,” “with your hands,” bruschetta and small plates. The appetizers and bruschetta seemed suited to sharing.

I asked our server about the small plates — are they three- or four-bite affairs like in a traditional tapas bar?

“Not really,” she said. “They’re more like a regular entrée, but it isn’t a really huge serving. But it’s still a lot of food.”

My friend added, “As you get further out from the city center, in the chain restaurants, everyone expects the plate to get bigger, piled with more starch. You don’t need all that anyway.”

We started with the house-cured olives, a variety of shapes, sizes and tastes that ranged from pleasantly mild to pungent with a bit of heat. They were fantastic with our drinks.

We also ordered the crab cakes, which Daniels is particularly proud of.

“I will say they’re the best in town,” she said, “to the point of people requesting them on the lunch menu.”

They were served on a pool of avocado puree with a squiggle of what the menu called sriracha aioli. The plump pucks, fortunately, weren’t full of bread, egg or especially bell pepper. Instead, they let big chunks of crab do the talking, while the avocado’s smoothness lent a velvety richness. The aioli didn’t have much garlic/chili kick, but too much would have overwhelmed the sweetness of the crab.

As far as libations go, we sampled a well-balanced Manhattan. I decided to stretch my boundaries with a “Ryan’s Sazerac.” I’ve never quite developed the taste for New Orleans’ classic blend of dark spirits (usually whiskey or Cognac), bitters and some form of licorice-flavored pastis. But the Drop seems to be onto something with its version, which isn’t overwhelmed with anise.

To reach Derek Donovan, call 816-234-4722 or e-mail ddonovan@kcstar.com

Posted on Wed, Oct. 21, 2009 10:39 PM
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