Step away from that chimichanga, that deep-fried mess, among the greatest gastronomic bastardizations of all time. </p><p>You can do a lot better, mi amigo. </p><p>Kansas City is set for a broadening of its palate in the range of Mexico&rsquo;s fine cuisine. Gracias Dios.</p><p>Today through Wednesday, the area hosts the first national convention of the Mexican Restaurant Association, a group formed through a cultural arm of the Mexican government.</p><p>For an area with such a history of Mexican influence, it&rsquo;s puzzling that the Kansas City area has gone so long without a greater assortment of the traditional dishes, especially those of a more upscale variety.</p><p>We&rsquo;re not thinking sour cream and gooey melted cheese here. Both ingredients are a strong clue that your plate is not authentically Mexican. </p><p>Apparently the situation is not unique to Kansas City.</p><p>In 2005, the Mexican government saw the need to promote more of its traditional cuisines, as well. The seafood of its coastal areas, the vineyards of Baja, the French influences distinct in many of the recipes of the central portion of the country.</p><p>The idea was to invite to Mexico those north-of-the-border restaurateurs who already were specializing in Mexican foods. By the next year, the association had formed, promoting itself as a way to link Mexican restaurants for networking and business development and promote Mexico&rsquo;s culinary culture beyond the standard fare.</p><p> At the time, Jacob Prado, now the Mexican consul in Kansas City, was assigned to the consulate in Dallas.</p><p> His interest helped bring the convention to Kansas City&rsquo;s Guadalupe Centers. Chefs from Morelia, Mexico; Mexico City; Miami; Portland, Ore.; and Denver will prepare meals. On the menu are dishes perhaps unfamiliar: chalupitas con ceviche e infladitas a la Veracruz, sopa de milpa, chiles en nogada, postre de bunuelos con mielde pilancillo and cafe de olla.</p><p>Chapters of the Mexican Restaurant Association now exist in Arkansas, Colorado, Florida, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon and Texas. The one based in Kansas City covers Kansas and Missouri.</p><p> This week also marks the fifth Tri-National Mexican Gastronomy Week, in which 800 U.S., Mexican and Canadian restaurants will participate. All will develop a menu around the theme &ldquo;Chilies and Sauces: The Colors of our Kitchen.&rdquo;</p><p> Food is like language, dynamic, shifting with new influences. So it should be no surprise that traditional Mexican staples morphed into what is regarded as Tex-Mex. Nothing is wrong with that style. Many dishes are delicious and have proven extremely successful to the franchise business models.</p><p> But if you think Tex-Mex is representative of all Mexican food, you have much to learn, pobrecito, much to learn.