A recent visit to Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City’s West Bottoms turned up the newest iteration of its Cinsaut bottling.
Cinsault, as it’s usually spelled, is a widely grown but lesser grape in southern France found in the Rhone Valley and the massive Languedoc region.
But here’s the thing about grapes: location matters. Though Malbec had been made for centuries in southwest France, it found fame only when grown in the high elevation vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina. Sauvignon Blanc was forever changed when the vintners of the north end of New Zealand’s South Island decided to create their own tangy, herbal version of the grape.
So why not Cinsault, er, Cinsaut? Both spellings are allowed, according to European Union authorities, and the grape has been producing lovely wine in Lodi, Calif., over the last decade or so.
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So Amigoni has made its own Lodi Cinsaut, and it is a plummy, rich stew of deliciousness.
Doug Frost is a Kansas City-based wine and spirits writer and consultant who for decades has happily educated the public about all things drink. He is one of only three people in the world to have earned the coveted titles of master sommelier and master of wine. He contributes a monthly wine column to The Star’s Food section.