It’s a long, long way to a pub in County Tipperary — especially if your craving for authentic Irish fish and chips can be more than satisfied at Brady’s Public House on Troost.
Chef Shaun Brady is a native of County Tipperary, Ireland. (That’s a portrait of the stone house he grew up in on the wall near the kitchen.)
Brady and business partner Ray Dunlea spent the summer remodeling Mike’s Tavern at 5424 Troost Ave., a longtime college burger-fries-beer hangout near Rockhurst and UMKC.
The new menu is focused on refined and colorful versions of the comfort food Brady ate growing up.
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In the pub’s scratch kitchen, pristine whole cod fillets are deep-fried golden brown and served with housemade tartar sauce, handcut fries, um, I mean chips, fresh, colorful coleslaw and a side of mushy peas — which are bright green and lightly sauteed, not mushy at all ($16).
You’ll also want to try the cottage pie ($14), the Scotch eggs ($5), maple-brined fried chicken finished with lemon pepper butter ($17) and raisin-studded scones ($6) made from a 100-year-old family recipe, and served with a pectin-less mixed berry jam and whipped cream.
The pub, of course, offers plenty of beer options, as well as Irish whiskeys and sophisticated craft cocktails under the direction of bar manager and fellow Irishman Ryan Rafferty.