Slow cookers: Fast forward to dinner

This story was originally published in the Wednesday, February 15, 2006 edition of The Kansas City Star

If your slow cooker has been gathering dust in a dark cupboard, it's time to drag it out and get reacquainted. In 2007, slow cooking is hip and happening.

Need proof? Turn on the television, where celebrity chefs such as Emeril Lagasse and Alton Brown share slow-cooker recipes. Stroll through the supermarket, where you'll find new products made specifically for slow cookers. Visit the bookstore, where the new releases include a slew of slow-cooker titles. And check out the newest generation of slow cookers, which have been updated to maximize their convenience and good looks.

"The appeal to slow cookers is the same as it's always been: Set it and forget it," says Victoria Matranga, design programs coordinator for the International Housewares Association in Rosemont, Ill. But the hands-off cooking style has gained even more fans as family time becomes ever more fractured.

"In suburbia, people are starving for what's for dinner and to not have to go through the drive-through," says Roxanne Wyss, a home economist and food consultant in Lenexa.

When Rival introduced the electric Crock-Pot in 1971, it turned the appliance into a kitchen staple by marketing it as a helpmate for the new legions of working women. The Crock-Pot allowed busy families to come home to the enticing aroma of a simmering meal made from fresh ingredients.

For years slow cookers were the steady Eddie of kitchen appliances. Although nearly 80 percent of households had slow cookers and they were the No. 2 item on bridal registries, interest in them kind of died, says Julie Kay, who writes a weekly column on slow cooking for The Advocate newspaper in Baton Rouge, La.

Slow cookers were perceived as perfect for making pot roast, stew and chili but not much else. As the appliance spotlight turned to more glamorous food processors, stand mixers and espresso machines, many fuddy-duddy harvest-gold slow cookers were shoved into cabinets and forgotten.

But times have changed. At Rival, sales of slow cookers have jumped about 20 percent the last four years, says Diane Coffey, a communications coordinator at the Holmes Group, which owns Rival. The resurgence, she says, is all about comfort food and getting dinner on the table.

"We saw a spike in sales after 9/11," Coffey says. "People were afraid to go out. They wanted to nest and spend time with their families at the dinner table."

In addition, the explosion of cooking and decorating shows on television has given a new cachet to homemaking skills, Matranga says. Instead of being just another chore to check off the list, cooking now is perceived as hip and entertaining.

Part of the fun is experimenting with ingredients and recipes. In the beginning, slow cooker recipes were seasoned mostly with onion soup mix and condensed soups, Wyss says.

But today's cooks are experimenting with a world of bolder flavors. Most ethnic cuisines include slow-simmered soups and stews, such as Moroccan tagine, that are easily adapted to electric slow cookers. And recipes abound in books and on the Web for nontraditional slow-cooker fare such as chutneys, cakes, risottos, roasted vegetables, oatmeal and cereal snack mixes.

Manufacturers of slow cookers have responded to renewed consumer interest with smart new features. The Versaware Crock-Pot from Rival, for example, is made from patented stoneware that endures temperature extremes. Cooks can use the stoneware to brown meat on the stove, store leftovers in the freezer and then reheat them in the microwave - true one-pot cooking. Versaware and most other stoneware inserts also are dishwasher-safe.

Several manufacturers offer programmable slow cookers. When cooking time is up, the pots automatically shift into "warm" mode - the perfect solution to an eight-hour recipe and a 10-hour workday. "Auto-shift" pots cook at high for the first hour to lift the food's temperature out of the danger zone, then automatically shift to the low setting.

Good-looking stoneware inserts go straight from the slow cooker to the table. And in addition to traditionally styled pots with twining vines and flowers, you'll find sophisticated stainless steel models.

Slow cooking also has gotten a boost from new supermarket products aimed at streamlining prep time and cleanup. Slow Cooker Helper from Betty Crocker and frozen Crock-Pot Classics from Banquet eliminate the need to peel and chop vegetables. Several companies make spice blends specifically for slow cookers, while Reynolds sells liners that keep stoneware crocks mess-free.

Cookers come in oval, rectangular and circular shapes. Sizes range from mini 2-cup models, ideal for warming party dips, to 31/2-quart models suitable for couples, to 7-quart giants that can hold two chickens. Manufacturers suggest you may need more than one slow cooker; newspaper columnist Kay owns 12.

Julie McIntire of Kansas City counts herself among the converts to slow cooking. Her mother had been trying to give her a slow cooker for years, and this year McIntire finally relented.

Since Christmas she has used the cooker almost weekly, turning out such dishes as chili, barbecued pork spare ribs and an Asian chicken dish.

"Everything I've made has been wonderful," she says. "I love it."

To reach Gail Borelli, call (816) 234-4771 or send e-mail to gborelli@kcstar.com.

Mexican-style pork stew

Makes 6 to 8 servings

5 pounds boneless, country-style pork ribs, trimmed

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

2 onions, chopped medium

2 tablespoons chili powder

5 garlic cloves, minced

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes

5 cups low-sodium chicken broth

3 (14-ounce) cans white or yellow hominy, rinsed

2 tablespoons minced fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried

1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Dry pork with paper towels, then season with salt and pepper. Heat 2 teaspoons oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown half of the pork, about 10 minutes, then add to the slow cooker. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and repeat with 2 more teaspoons oil and remaining pork.

Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil to the empty skillet and heat over medium until shimmering. Add onions, chili powder and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 15 seconds. Stir in tomatoes with their juice, scraping up any browned bits. Bring to a simmer, then pour into the slow cooker.

Add broth, hominy and oregano to the slow cooker. Cover and cook, on either low or high, until the meat is tender, 7 to 8 hours on low or 5 to 6 hours on high.

Transfer meat to a large bowl and let cool. Let the cooking liquid settle 5 minutes, then use a wide spoon to skim the fat off the surface. When the meat is cool enough to handle, shred it using your fingers, discarding any gristle, and add it back to the slow cooker. Before serving, stir in cilantro and lime juice and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving (based on 6): 841 calories (48 percent from fat), 45 grams total fat (14 grams saturated), 162 milligrams cholesterol, 40 grams carbohydrates, 67 grams protein, 1,140 milligrams sodium, 7 grams dietary fiber.

- The America's Test Kitchen Family Cookbook (America's Test Kitchen)

Chocolate peanut butter pudding cake

Makes 6 to 8 servings

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 cup sugar

11/2 teaspoons baking powder

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup whole milk or chocolate milk

2 tablespoons canola, peanut or walnut oil

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup smooth or chunky peanut butter (natural or hydrogenated)

1/2 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Topping:

3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

3/4 cup sugar

11/2 cups boiling water

Vanilla ice cream, for serving

Coat slow cooker with butter-flavored nonstick vegetable cooking spray. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 2 tablespoons cocoa, sugar, baking powder and salt. Make a well in the center and add milk, oil and vanilla. Stir until well blended. Continue stirring in widening circles, gradually incorporating the dry ingredients until you have a smooth batter. Stir in the peanut butter (warm it in the microwave if thick and sticky from refrigeration); the batter will be thick. Stir in chocolate chips. Spread batter evenly in the cooker.

For topping: In another medium bowl, combine 3 tablespoons cocoa and sugar. Add boiling water and whisk until smooth. Gently pour over the batter in the cooker; do not stir. Cover and cook on high until puffed and the top layer is set, 2 to 21/2 hours. Turn off the cooker and let stand, covered, at least 30 minutes before serving.

To serve, scoop cake into individual bowls. Add a scoop of vanilla ice cream, if desired. Spoon some of the fudgy pudding over the cake and ice cream and serve.

Per serving, based on 6: 510 calories (36 percent from fat), 21 grams total fat (6 grams saturated), 3 milligrams cholesterol, 75 grams carbohydrates, 10 grams protein, 258 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

- Not Your Mother's Slow Cooker Cookbook (Harvard Common Press) by Beth Hensperger and Julie Kaufmann

Goblin mix

Makes 12 to 15 servings

2 cups mini pretzel twists

3 cups rice cereal (such as Chex)

2 cups corn cereal (such as Kix)

1 cup salted cashews

1 cup goldfish-shaped cheese crackers

1/2 cup margarine, melted

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Mix pretzels, cereals, cashews and crackers in slow cooker.

Melt margarine over low heat on stovetop or in microwave and stir in Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder and cayenne pepper. Pour margarine mixture over dry mixture in a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook on low 3 to 4 hours. Uncover for the last 45 minutes. Let cool completely before storing in plastic containers or bags.

Per serving (based on 12): 282 calories (56 percent from fat), 18 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 3 milligrams cholesterol, 26 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 414 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

- Slow Cookin' in the Fast Lane , (Wimmer) by Julie Kay

Gingery pears poached in green tea

Makes 8 servings

4 cups boiling water

2 tablespoons green tea leaves

1 to 2 tablespoons grated ginger root

1/2 cup honey

1 teaspoon pure almond extract

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

8 firm pears, such as Bosc, peeled, cored and cut into quarters lengthwise

Toasted sliced almonds (optional)

Vanilla-flavored yogurt (optional)

In a pot, combine boiling water and tea leaves. Cover and let steep 5 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve into slow cooker.

Add ginger root, honey, almond extract and lemon zest and stir well. Add pears. Cover and cook on low 6 hours or on high 3 hours, until pears are tender. Transfer to a serving bowl, cover and chill thoroughly. Garnish with toasted almonds and a dollop of yogurt, if desired.

Per serving: 165 calories (3 percent from fat), 1 gram total fat (trace saturated fat), no cholesterol, 43 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 2 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

- The Healthy Slow Cooker (Robert Rose) by Judith Finlayson

SAFETY FIRST

Foods need to be heated to 140 degrees within 11/2 hours to prevent bacteria growth. To do this in a slow cooker, you should cook on high (about 300 degrees) for the first hour to quickly bring the temperature up to 140 degrees and then turn the temperature to low (about 200 degrees) to finish cooking.

Another option is to microwave the removable stoneware pot and its contents on high 5 to 10 minutes. Remove from the microwave, stir and place the pot in the slow cooker on the low setting.

Defrost all frozen foods before adding them to the crock. If you start with chilled meat, make sure the liquid you add is boiling.

Remove cooked food from the crock or liner before storage. Because the liner is made of such thick material, the food won't cool quickly enough to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. Do not reheat foods in a slow cooker.

Sources: www.busycooks.com, www.sparklepeople.com

COOK’S TIPS

Trim as much fat as possible from meat, and remove skin from poultry. Fats will melt with long cooking times and will add an unpleasant texture to the finished dish. Fatty foods also will cook too quickly.

Cook ground meats in a skillet before adding to a slow cooker. Large pieces of meat may be browned first, which adds color and develops flavor. But it isn't necessary.

Vegetables do not cook as quickly as meat, so put them around the outside of the cooker where the temperature is highest.

Fill the slow cooker one-half to two-thirds full.

Don't lift the lid. Each time you do, the cooker loses so much heat that the cooking time should be increased by 20 minutes. If you simply must see inside, spin the lid so the condensation falls off and look through the top.

Spices will lose flavor if cooked too long, so stir them in during the last hour of cooking. Use whole leaf herbs and spices instead of ground for better flavor. Add seafood during the last hour of cooking time, or it will overcook and be rubbery. Add tender vegetables like tomatoes, mushrooms and zucchini during the last 45 minutes. Add dairy products during the last 30 minutes unless the recipe states otherwise.

Rule of thumb: One hour on high equals 2 to 21/2 hours on low.

Source: www.busycooks.com