The Wine Press: Washington wines hold their own against California’s

The state of the state of Washington has changed.

Seattle suburbs are sprouting their own little skyscrapers like there’s no recession. The Tri-Cities, which used to remind me of a sleepy agricultural community, now seems like a metropolis in the making, complete with neighborhoods and ethnic enclaves.

Even Walla Walla is getting into the act of being hip and dynamic or, well, at least it’s rapidly growing. Heck, two years ago, Walla Walla might as well have been in Idaho.

But even if Walla Walla isn’t your idea of a teeming city-scape, the vineyards have spread out like greenery on an untended vine, and in every direction, new plantings surround the town.

Not so long ago people heard Walla Walla and thought onions; now they should think wine. With acreage in both Oregon and Washington, Walla Walla Valley’s scoured soils fashion remarkable wines from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah, and often from blends of those grapes.

Some of America’s greatest wines are produced in Walla Walla, and smart buyers know that value is easier to find in Washington than in California.

From Walla Walla, look for labels such as Basel Cellars, Buty, Canoe Ridge, Dunham, Forgeron, Gramercy, Isenhower, K Vintners, L’Ecole 41, Pepper Bridge, Reininger, Tamarack, Three Rivers, Walla Walla Vintners, pioneer Woodward Canyon and two legends: Cayuse Vineyards and Leonetti Cellars.

The nearby Red Mountain wine region enjoys as stellar a reputation, though some of its wines can be hard and unyielding in youth. Wines that carry the Klipsun Vineyard appellation (lots of smart winemakers source their grapes from Klipsun) often require five to 10 years to reveal their gentler nature. But wineries such as Kiona, Hedges and Bookwalter can also boast of softer personalities in their stables.

The wines that come from Red Willow Vineyard in nearby Yakima Valley will never be accused of toughness. This pioneer vineyard was planted in 1973, and owner Mike Sauer has helped guide the Washington wine industry toward its most successful grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah.

There are other great vineyards in Yakima Valley but Red Willow’s contribution is still on-going, with promising plantings of Viognier, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Lemberger, Sangiovese and Malbec.

These regions in eastern Washington and other equally worthy regions such as the Columbia Gorge, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope and Rattlesnake Hills are all east of the Cascades, along with most of the vast Columbia Valley. The mountains help keep the climate dry and sunny, utterly unlike the popular view of Washington.

But if you find yourself in Seattle, far from the wineries of eastern Washington, don’t despair. Some of Washington’s best wineries are just east of town: ubiquitous Chateau Ste. Michelle may seem too common to matter, but don’t be a hater.

Ste. Michelle has wonderful wines on offer, and its sister labels Domaine Ste. Michelle (tasty bubbly), Columbia Crest (you said you wanted value) and Snoqualmie (even more value) are nearly as worthy.

Columbia Winery’s legendary winemaker David Lake has retired but his wines are still for sale. Columbia’s new wines pay homage to Lake’s brilliance and inspiration in the creation of many of Washington’s best wines.

Some of my favorite wineries are nearly next-door to Ste. Michelle’s elegant grounds: Betz Family (powerful, dense wines), Matthews Cellars (elegance and excellence) and DeLille Cellars (both power and elegance).

Other excellent wineries, such as Cadence, Harlequin and Owen Sullivan, can be found in nooks, crannies, suburbs and islands along Washington’s Pacific frontage.

Not far from Seattle are three of America’s finest wineries: McCrea Cellars (brilliant Rhone varieties), Quilceda Creek (dense Bordeaux varieties) and Andrew Will Winery, on scenic, bucolic Vashon Island. Chris Camarda, Andrew Will’s owner and winemaker, is a brilliant winemaker, and I buy and drink his wines avidly.

Maybe I’m preaching to the already converted, but some wine consumers still treat Washington like a place that is somehow not as important as California. In terms of volume, California easily outstrips Washington. But in terms of quality, Washington is California’s peer.

Doug Frost is a wine and spirits consultant based in Kansas City. He holds the rare dual distinction of master of wine and master sommelier. His column appears in this section monthly. Reach him at wine@kcstar.com.