Fans love Pyramid Pizza for its braided crust, which you can slather with the packaged honey that comes with it.
But I’ve always thought the secret to the seductive power of the legendary Lawrence pie is the sauce.
As a veteran order-taker and in-a-pinch pizza maker at the original location below the Wheel on West 14th Street back in the ’80s, I can vouch for the house-made, unusually thick and herb-y, just-sweet-enough paste. When you try to spread it around the unbaked crust with the bottom of a ladle, you end up with more of a spiral than a uniform coating.
So another yummy feature of the crust is the thick bits of sauce that get shoved into its folds and caramelize during baking. The thicker sauce makes for a less-soggy pie.
Various locations have come and gone, but today the only place to get Pyramid Pizza is on Massachusetts Street, in a cavernous storefront with exposed brick walls. Unlike earlier incarnations, the Mass Street store has plenty of seating.
More importantly, Pyramid’s interior is cleaner than that of its illustrious neighbor to the south, the Harbor Lights saloon. Proximity to that establishment creates a neat symbiotic relationship for both long-time businesses that should ensure a steady flow of University of Kansas students and alums for generations to come.
Pyramid sells pizza by the slice, available daily from 2 p.m. to midnight and until 3 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. A large slice from a 16-inch pie, topped with Italian sausage, pepperoni or cheese costs $2.75. From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily when a buffet is offered, you can get two smaller slices off the buffet for $2.75. Two slices and a drink are $5.75.
The service at Pyramid has always had a laid-back quality — certainly when I worked there, and it doesn’t seem to have ramped up noticeably on recent visits. So if you’re in a hurry, don’t go during the lunch rush or on game day.
And if you like honey with your braided crust, ask for it if your server doesn’t ask you first.
1029 Massachusetts St.
11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Wednesday and 11 to 3 a.m. Thursday through Saturday
Metered on the street
: Slice of sausage, pepperoni or cheese pizza, $2.75
Lots of veggie topping options
Ethics policy: The Star purchases all food sampled for Good to Go columns. Visits are made without reservations or advance notice.