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The décor and lighting at Oak 63 give the restaurant a sophisticated, European feel.
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Corner cafes at every turn, haricot verts atop my salad and a shared bottle of Côtes du Rhône: little aspects of everyday life in France that bring big smiles.
This summer I was lucky enough to spend a week in Paris (where I could live on pastries, bread and cheese alone).
For J.B. Bremser, being a chef is about keeping it simple and not “doing too many things to food.” That, his well-traveled father told him, is French style.
Bremser is the catalyst behind Oak 63 bistro in the Brookside area, by 63rd and Oak. His dad, Jeff Bremser, is the owner. “I’m the do-everything-else guy,” J.B. says with a chuckle.
For someone with a goal of maintaining a simple but fluctuating menu day after day with scrumptious offerings, Bremser has an anything but simple daily to-do list. With only three small refrigerators and a kitchen comparable in size to the restaurant’s bathroom, he relies on fresh ingredients.
So how many times a day does he shop for food?
“As many as it takes,” Bremser says. And that means multiple runs to Costco and Cosentino’s Market Brookside and bounty from his dad’s trips to the farmers market.
The result is a homey yet polished meal for visitors to Oak 63, which opened late last year in the former Café Maison spot. My husband, Jake, and I had been meaning for months to step inside the place; none of our excuses were excusable. We can walk there — it’s practically in our neighborhood.
While Café Maison felt eclectic — French country décor with bright yellows and blues and mix-and-match chairs — Oak 63 emits a more grown-up vibe that still evokes European charm. Next door is J’Adore, a décor shop with Parisian gifts, garden items and antiques. Houses built in the 1920s back up to the row of businesses.
Jake and I headed that way on a recent Thursday evening, and I was drawn to the pale mustard yellow walls and vintage-inspired pendant lights hanging from the ceiling. But dark wood chairs and dim lighting could keep the bistro a secret from the bustling world outside the front door on 63rd Street.
Megan, the solo waitress of the night, invited us to choose our own table. Though it’s a small dining area, the tables are spaced nicely, and we appreciated selecting our own spot, one facing the windows so we could people-watch. (Sure enough, later on we saw neighbors walking their dog as well as a runner and others out soaking up summer’s last breath.)
On the wall by our table, industrial metal artwork in low relief caught our eye. The colors — red, blue, brown, yellow and green — seemed to add warmth to the walls.
The setting was quiet, with faint classical music from sky.fm (we overheard piped-in offers to “upgrade to premium”). The TV at the bar set to ESPN seemed a little out of place, but without the volume it wasn’t a distraction. Not the case, however, with the blaring police and ambulance sirens that whizzed by beyond the glass. Kitchen noise was pronounced, but fellow diners seemed undisturbed by either.
Megan brought us the dinner menu and a wine list but warned us that not every bottle on the list was available. But with about 30 choices for both reds and whites, we weren’t going to be picky. I got a glass of Zaca Mesa Chardonnay after my first choice, the Zaca Mesa Roussanne, was unavailable.
A new menu is printed daily, and the prices are reasonable.
“I feel bad about charging people for food,” Bremser would tell me later in a phone conversation.
A house salad ($6), soup (cup, $4; bowl, $6) and macaroni and cheese (side, $5; full, $7) topped the list, followed by eight entrée choices ranging from $12 to $20.
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