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You needn’t care about high fashion to get into “Valentino: The Last Emperor,” an engaging documentary about the 40-year reign of Valentino Garavani.
At 77, Valentino, who has dressed Jackie Kennedy and scores more of the world’s most glamorous women, is in many ways an incomplete person. He’s such a total aesthete that day-to-day reality holds little interest for him.
But give him a naked woman and a bolt of cloth, and he’ll create something spectacular.
“I am a disaster in everything else,” the perfectly tanned designer admits in one of his rare moments of candid revelation.
In fact, the film by Matt Tyrnauer, a Vanity Fair correspondent, views Valentino almost exclusively through the eyes of his longtime lover, Giancarlo Giammetti, who also serves as the CEO of Valentino’s corporation.
Early in the film a pushy TV journalist sticks a microphone in Giammetti’s face and asks what it’s like to live in the shadow of a great man. If the question hurts, Giammetti doesn’t let it show.
Later, though, he says that being a friend, lover and employee of Valentino requires patience.
Valentino can be petulant and imperious, pushy and mercurial. Despite decades of triumphs, he’s still tormented by insecurities and often second-guesses his artistic decisions.
He must be coached on even basic social interactions (“Don’t forget … your secretary’s son just graduated from college …”).
Meanwhile Giammetti runs the business. He’s part personal assistant, part hard-hitting mogul who must deftly navigate the financial shark tank with the corporate players who are now majority owners of the Valentino brand.
He does it out of love, both for Valentino and for the business they have created together.
“Valentino” follows this pair over a year in which they prepare a huge retrospective of Valentino’s work to be mounted in the shadow of Rome’s Coliseum.
Valentino frets and whines. The preternaturally calm Giammetti offers reassurances and doggedly keeps pushing the project forward. Occasionally he’ll give a “what-are-you-gonna-do?” shrug to the camera.
Frequently this doc plays like a real-life Fellini movie, filled with beautiful people and bizarre incidents.
And ultimately it’s an unexpectedly touching love story.
(The film opens today at the Tivoli and AMC Studio 30.)
Cast: Valentino Garavani, Giancarlo Giammetti
Rated: PG-13 for some nudity and language; some dialogue in French and Italian with subtitles
Running time: 1:36
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