Chow Town

Late summer drinks … even though the first day of autumn is upon us

Updated: 2013-09-22T00:35:13Z

By DOUG FROST

The summer started out soggy and while we all braced ourselves for the torchlight of the Midwest’s usual sun, it was late in coming.

Who knew that September would be the month when it would arrive?

Its brief ferocity lulled many of us into complacence, but the fall is here. Somehow I feel cheated.

I wanted summer; it was long in arriving. I longed for a break from the drippy heat; it showed up sooner than I expected. I peg my consumption to the seasons and the weather but right now I don’t know what to do.

So I’ll split the difference.

I still want a few of my summer favorites: roses, tangy white wines and German Rieslings. But as the nighttime lows become more dramatic, I look for wines with more body and weight.

And even if I’m still in the mood for white wines and roses, the simplicity of a lemony Muscadet is now less appealing than the complexity of a wine from farther east on the River Loire, say, in Sancerre or Pouilly Fume.

The 2012 vintage in the Lorie is, or at least should be, legendary. The wines are spectacular. They can be a bit pricier than usual, but the producers had only about half as much wine to sell as usual, thanks to the wet and difficult spring. They’re worth every penny.

Producers such as Jolivet, Bourgeois, Mellot, Laporte, Vacheron and many others have bottles just begging to be consumed no matter what the temperature.

And amongst my favorite late summer drinks are tasty roses, Dry Creek Vineyards, who are so reliable in every category, with their Petite Zin Rose 2012 and Pedroncelli Vineyards, again, they are more consistent than most, Dry Rose of Zin 2012 both work for me whether it’s hot and muggy outside or cooling precipitously, as the season would warrant.

Doug Frost is a Kansas City-based wine and spirits writer and consultant who for decades has happily educated the public about all things drink. He is one of only three people in the world to have earned the coveted titles of master sommelier and master of wine. He contributes a monthly wine column for The Star’s Food section.

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