Chow Town

Kansas Citians’ choices for butcher shops grow

Updated: 2013-07-31T15:50:08Z

By DAVE ECKERT

It’s a trend — or a mini-trend: The local butcher is making a comeback.

While most of us still pick up our meat at the supermarket, more shoppers are visiting their neighborhood butcher, or a neighborhood butcher these days.

For years, McGonigle’s Market at 79th Street and Ward Parkway had the upscale and specialty meat market cornered.

They’ve been famous for providing high quality meat to discerning Kansas Citians for more than 50-years. But, lately, McGonigle’s has some company, and competition, in the high end meat market.

On the Kansas side, Dodge City Beef has joined the fray. Selling beef, buffalo, pork, and lamb from its own farm. Dodge City Beef in Shawnee lays claim to some of the freshest, and purest, meat in the metro with no antibiotics and no growth hormones.

There’s also Schenker Family Farms, which sells beef, lamb, pork, poultry, and more. Different from the other shops, Schenker Family Farms bills itself as a multi-generational working farm with a commitment to their heritage and an ever greater commitment to their family and faith. They also hang their hat on the no antibiotics, steroids, and growth hormones mantra.

Back in Missouri, I’m sure nearly everyone reading this has heard about or visited Alex Pope’s butcher shop, the Local Pig. Located in the East Bottoms, the store and adjacent Pigwich food truck are uber-hot among local foodies.

They’ve gotten so much attention, in fact, I decided to turn the spotlight elsewhere — to a place you might not have heard of — The Broadway Butcher. Located in the former temporary home of Gomer’s Midtown at 3828 Broadway, the Broadway Butcher is the latest entrant in the up-scale meat market, and the lifetime dream of owner and butcher Greg Madouras.

“I’ve had a more than 30-year career as a butcher,” Madouras told me, “but I’ve never stopped dreaming of, and planning for, my own shop. When I saw this space, I knew this was the place.”

Madouras said his grandfather was a butcher and he made a pretty good living, so at the age of 18 with no real career direction elsewhere, Madouras was working as a sacker at a United Super store in Stanley, Kansas when he was offered the chance to learn the craft of butchering. Madouras worked there for ten years and at a number of Price Choppers for about 20-more, all along eyeing a store of his own.

“I want to bring back something that was lost,” Madouras said. “We do everything old school, like only offering hand-crafted cuts of meat, and making 10 or more different types of homemade sausages,” Madouras continued.

So, was it worth the wait, and is it everything it was cracked up to be?

“Absolutely,” says Madouras, adding “I want people to know what it was like to have a neighborhood butcher shop.”

So, step in and step back in time.

The phone number is 816-931-BEEF (931-2333). Or go to the Broadway Butcher Shop’s Facebook page.

Dave Eckert is the producer and host of “Culinary Travels With Dave Eckert,” which aired on PBS-TV and Wealth TV for 12 seasons, or nearly 300 half-hour episodes produced on six continents. Eckert is also an avid wine collector and aficionado, having amassed a personal wine cellar of some 2,000 bottles.

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