Chow Town

At Peanches, a quiet, fine-dining outpost, walk-ins are now welcome (again)

Updated: 2013-05-08T18:33:51Z

By STEVE PAUL

The Kansas City Star

Braised beef neck with potato puree. Double garlic hen breast. Missoura crab cakes (with typically more crab than filler).

Peanches, the quiet little outpost with outstanding regional food made by Pete Peterman, is now serving walk-ins for dinner. After a period of offering reservations-only, fixed-price dinners, Peterman’s place now has an a la carte menu, including a changing lineup of dishes like those above. Prices, on a typical menu, range from $7 salads to a $33 KC strip.

About that fixed-price menu: At four small-plate courses for $32 a person (wine pairings are extra), it makes for an attractive, value-priced meal in the realm of fine dining. But if you’re a food adventurer you might also be tempted by supplemental courses, as we were at a dinner Tuesday night.

For $11 our birthday party of three shared a plate of butter poached Maine lobster tail, served with spinach and polenta (pictured) and we also downed a plate of silky foie gras, served atop a honey-fried cornbread (an extra $10). The other dishes included a little salad of Lillet-poached lobster, cod and prawns; hen breast with quinoa, beets and “infant” portabello, back strap and beef cheek with potato puree (see photo) and, for dessert, a chocolate-coffee torte.

And don’t let me forget the bottomless serving of Peterman’s excellent bread, which he bakes daily.

Peterman also now serves lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Wednesday-Friday.

When I reviewed Peanches in January (three-and-a-half stars), I noted that its location, at 900 W. 39th St., in an isolated strip center west of Southwest Trafficway, might be challenging, as was its somewhat idiosyncratic style.

But, once again, I don’t care about that. This is a place deserving more diners. The food rules.

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