With a name like Bonefish Grill, you might expect a place to be draped in anglers nets and stuffed to the gills with antique tackle and lures.
By STEVE PAUL
The Kansas City Star
But, like McCormick & Schmicks, say, or Bostons Legal Sea Foods, Bonefish Grill wraps itself in refined wood finishes and suburban restraint.
Its dark in here, said She Who Is Not Easily Pleased as we were shown our bar-area booth.
Uh-oh, were in for a downer, went my inner-attitude gauge.
Lo and behold, it wasnt 5 minutes later, after servers, managers and drink slingers came and went, that She Who was singing a new tune: Service must be their middle name.
What she didnt know was that Bonefish Grill, which has two area locations, is a casual chain with a solid reputation for service and food. In a Zagat online survey last year, it ranked as top overall restaurant (among 137 chains) as well as No. 1 in seafood and service. We had mixed feelings after our first dinner but came away from the second in a pretty good mood.
The first night I was impressed by a thinly cut, tender swordfish steak accented nicely with a few dollops of chimichurri, a savory sauce like a South American pesto.
A sashimi appetizer made less of an impression, and I was downright dejected that the side of supposedly fresh and seasonal asparagus ($1 extra) came out wrinkled, limp and chewy, as if it had fallen asleep in the steam bath.
Everybody loves soft-shell crab season, right? Sorry, but Ive never quite understood the attraction. There always seems to be less than meets the eye, and I dont care how soft the shell might be, youre still bound to be picking a few bits out of your teeth.
Our soft-shell crab entrée at Bonefish Grill did nothing to change my mind and caused She Who to announce a few days later that shes done ordering the dish after too many disappointments.
Maybe you have to live and dine in Maryland to get the true essence of this short-term delicacy.
But talk about disappointment. For our second meal, we headed with some friends up north to yet another suburban strip mall, and amid our convivial repast, I noted that diners at two adjacent tables were crestfallen to learn that the soft-shell crab special was unavailable, sold out. It was a holiday weekend, the place was packed, and I wasnt surprised.
At one of those tables, a string of mishaps brought the manager out for a long sit-down chat with the unhappy couple. And he returned several times over the next 30 minutes. Of course, I tried to eavesdrop, but I caught only the occasional comment, including the mans assertion that he was a longtime Bonefish customer and really loved the place but tonight had been a disaster.
Im pretty sure the couple got comped and dessert to boot, but they also seemed to appreciate the managers calm demeanor and gestures.
We had much better luck at our table. We started with the Bang Bang Shrimp, a Bonefish favorite. A good number of smallish shrimp, with breading so slight it mostly disappeared, came slathered in a chile-fied mayo and sitting on a bed of greens. The shrimp were addictive. Corn chowder, a bowl of slightly sweet creaminess, went down like butter, though I suppose I ate it too fast to notice more than a sliver of the promised lump crab.
Im not a big fan of fussy seafood preparations. Very good fish is quite capable of speaking for itself. So I wondered if a couple of this nights specials werent trying too hard, like the white tuna in a jalapeño bacon cream sauce.
Still, I opted to try the prosciutto-wrapped monkfish with mushrooms in a Marsala sauce and was pleasantly surprised to find the fish medallions still tender and the whole package rather appealing.
She Who was happy with the over-stuffed Longfin Tilapia Imperial our server said it was the restaurants most popular entrée which found the mild white fish packed to overflowing with a lemon-buttered medley of shrimp, scallop and crab chunks.
Our friends ordered from the gluten-free menu and were thrilled with their grilled rainbow trout and Chilean sea bass. For the seafood-averse, the restaurant also offers chicken, steaks and a pork chop.
After devouring the Key lime pie on our earlier visit, we jumped at a dessert special. It was a very light bread pudding topped with a peanut butter gelato and raspberry sauce (our de-glutenized friends skipped the pudding). While we spooned through it, I noticed that the gelato was a beige hue, about the same color as the wrapping paper that topped our vinyl-covered tables and much of the wall covering beneath the fish-themed artworks.
Its tempting to go on about the beige-ness of it all, but despite some of its hiccups, this chain knows how to hook em.
5021 W. 135th St., Leawood
6334 N. Lucerne Ave., Kansas City, North
BonefishGrill.com (each location has its own page)
Hours: 4 to 10 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 3 to 9:30 p.m. Sunday
Entree average: $$
Vegetarian options: Salads, sides and vegetable dishes to order. Gluten-free menu available.
Handicap accessible: Yes.
Kids: Separate menu includes chicken tenders, fish strips, mac n cheese and more.
Noise level: Good table separation. Full dining room had pleasant buzz.
Reservations: Not required, but available by phone or OpenTable.
Star code:★ Fair, ★★ Good, ★★★ Excellent, ★★★★ Extraordinary
Price code: $ Average entree under $10. $$ Average entree under $20. $$$ Average entree under $30. $$$$ Average entree over $30
Code of ethics: Starred reviews are written after a minimum of two visits to a restaurant. When required, reservations are made in a name other than the reviewers. The Star pays for reviewers meals.
Bang Bang Shrimp, $8.90
Corn chowder with lump crab, $6.50
North Atlantic swordfish, $17.90 or $20.90
Longfin Tilapia Imperial, stuffed with shrimp, scallops, crab, $17.90
Chilean sea bass, $22.90 or $26.90
Key lime pie, $5.90
What to drink
Full bar, specialty martinis (the Bonefish martini was a simple, slightly effervescent blend of Stoli vodka, cranberry and Prosecco) and other concoctions, including a not-too-sweet sangria, with a deep, pomegranate-driven color and sophisticated taste. Beer list ranges from the usual draft, canned and bottled suspects to specialty brews and Boulevards Sixth Glass Quadrupel Ale (a large bottle for $15).
Wine list is approachable and somewhat value-oriented with mostly familiar names. By-the-glass selections range from $5 to $10. Our bottle of Dona Paula Los Cardos Malbec ($26) is a nicely balanced choice not too fruity, not too acidic, not too overpriced. It served our fish dishes well and held up to some of the spicier, saucier treatments on our plates.