Corner cafes at every turn, haricot verts atop my salad and a shared bottle of Côtes du Rhône: little aspects of everyday life in France that bring big smiles.
This summer I was lucky enough to spend a week in Paris (where I could live on pastries, bread and cheese alone).For J.B. Bremser, being a chef is about keeping it simple and not “doing too many things to food.” That, his well-traveled father told him, is French style.Bremser is the catalyst behind Oak 63 bistro in the Brookside area, by 63rd and Oak. His dad, Jeff Bremser, is the owner. “I’m the do-everything-else guy,” J.B. says with a chuckle.For someone with a goal of maintaining a simple but fluctuating menu day after day with scrumptious offerings, Bremser has an anything but simple daily to-do list. With only three small refrigerators and a kitchen comparable in size to the restaurant’s bathroom, he relies on fresh ingredients. So how many times a day does he shop for food? “As many as it takes,” Bremser says. And that means multiple runs to Costco and Cosentino’s Market Brookside and bounty from his dad’s trips to the farmers market.The result is a homey yet polished meal for visitors to Oak 63, which opened late last year in the former Café Maison spot. My husband, Jake, and I had been meaning for months to step inside the place; none of our excuses were excusable. We can walk there — it’s practically in our neighborhood.While Café Maison felt eclectic — French country décor with bright yellows and blues and mix-and-match chairs — Oak 63 emits a more grown-up vibe that still evokes European charm. Next door is J’Adore, a décor shop with Parisian gifts, garden items and antiques. Houses built in the 1920s back up to the row of businesses.Jake and I headed that way on a recent Thursday evening, and I was drawn to the pale mustard yellow walls and vintage-inspired pendant lights hanging from the ceiling. But dark wood chairs and dim lighting could keep the bistro a secret from the bustling world outside the front door on 63rd Street.Megan, the solo waitress of the night, invited us to choose our own table. Though it’s a small dining area, the tables are spaced nicely, and we appreciated selecting our own spot, one facing the windows so we could people-watch. (Sure enough, later on we saw neighbors walking their dog as well as a runner and others out soaking up summer’s last breath.)On the wall by our table, industrial metal artwork in low relief caught our eye. The colors — red, blue, brown, yellow and green — seemed to add warmth to the walls. The setting was quiet, with faint classical music from sky.fm (we overheard piped-in offers to “upgrade to premium”). The TV at the bar set to ESPN seemed a little out of place, but without the volume it wasn’t a distraction. Not the case, however, with the blaring police and ambulance sirens that whizzed by beyond the glass. Kitchen noise was pronounced, but fellow diners seemed undisturbed by either.Megan brought us the dinner menu and a wine list but warned us that not every bottle on the list was available. But with about 30 choices for both reds and whites, we weren’t going to be picky. I got a glass of Zaca Mesa Chardonnay after my first choice, the Zaca Mesa Roussanne, was unavailable.A new menu is printed daily, and the prices are reasonable.“I feel bad about charging people for food,” Bremser would tell me later in a phone conversation.A house salad ($6), soup (cup, $4; bowl, $6) and macaroni and cheese (side, $5; full, $7) topped the list, followed by eight entrée choices ranging from $12 to $20.We ordered the Oak 63 salad, Italian tomato soup and some mac and cheese. Jake chose the steak frites for $20, which was a ribeye with grilled asparagus, fries and horseradish sauce. I wanted something that we’d never make at home, so I decided on the seared duck breast with arugula salad and white wine pan redux, $12. Our salad included spring mix, house vinaigrette, radishes, red peppers and chèvre crumbles. On a different day, you might find beets and spinach. Bremser wisely opts for whatever looks the freshest that day at the market. Same goes for the mac and cheese: “Brie and bleu, cheddar, jack and parmesan — whatever I have on hand,” he says.The creamy soup was good, not great, and would be better with a sandwich on a chilly day, though maybe I was suffering tomato overload from our own garden. Or perhaps I couldn’t concentrate because I was in a self-induced cheesy coma, mac style.Poor Jake — I hardly gave him the chance to score any crispy edges, but there was plenty of ooziness to share. I liked the flavors and didn’t feel that it was overly rich (paired with a salad, it could make a meal).A self-proclaimed Oak 63 regular at the table beyond ours ordered fish tacos ($12), his favorite. They’re made with tilapia, spring mix and pico.Our duck and steak arrived just as my stomach felt satisfied, but I knew I’d find a bit more room. And who could turn down pommes frites perfection? Not me. My only dissatisfaction was the liberal use of salt on the meat and vegetables, but next time I’ll know to make a low-sodium request.The dessert options included chocolate mousse and butterscotch pudding made by Jeff Bremser, who also bakes the bread for the weekends. On weekdays, they use Farm to Market bread. The chocolate was sumptuous, though it had a sticky consistency and lacked in presentation. The saltiness of the butterscotch dessert overpowered the sweetness.Bremser admits that he doesn’t have a sweet tooth, but his dad and aunt, Betty Bremser, fill that void. Betty owns Foo’s Fabulous Frozen Custard, and when her mixed berry cobbler makes it on the menu (usually on weekends), it’s a favorite.The passion for cooking and entertaining is in the family genes. Jeff Bremser’s travels as an advertising executive took him to France and spawned a love of French cuisine, and J.B. Bremser remembers growing up with a lot of big dinner parties. His mom, Suzanne Bremser, used to have a restaurant, Classic Plate, in back of the Classic Cup on the Plaza. It was Bremser’s lucky role as a high-schooler to make the bread and pasta. Maybe that experience, despite many early mornings, is paying off at Oak 63.Simple, seasonal food is definitely a draw, but the relaxed, down-to-earth experience is what will bring me back.Much as in France, I never felt rushed, which for a slow eater is a perk. Plus the room temperature was mild, unlike the freeze-out factor you’ll find at many establishments.I was happy to leave my sweater at home and my mind on France.
MY DINNER AT is a story about a single dining experience. The narrative is based on an anonymous visit. The Star pays for the meal.
oak 63
408 E. 63rd St.816-569-6310Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Sunday brunch is from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.Entrée range: $12 to $20, with the lamb chops ($18, served with mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus) making a regular appearance.Brunch menu: Includes blueberry pancakes with bacon for $8 and eggs Benedict for $9 to $10.Vegetarian choices: Not much, unless you’re OK with cheese and seafood.Don’t miss dish/favorites: Mac and cheese, steak frites and fish tacos; the Reuben sandwich ($10) at lunch is a fave. And if you’re lucky, Aunt Betty’s mixed berry cobbler. Credit cards: All major ones acceptedNoise level: Quiet (except for occasional sirens outside and dish clanking inside)Parking: StreetAccessible: YesSoundtrack: Classical
408 E. 63rd St.816-569-6310Hours: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Sunday brunch is from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.Entrée range: $12 to $20, with the lamb chops ($18, served with mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus) making a regular appearance.Brunch menu: Includes blueberry pancakes with bacon for $8 and eggs Benedict for $9 to $10.Vegetarian choices: Not much, unless you’re OK with cheese and seafood.Don’t miss dish/favorites: Mac and cheese, steak frites and fish tacos; the Reuben sandwich ($10) at lunch is a fave. And if you’re lucky, Aunt Betty’s mixed berry cobbler. Credit cards: All major ones acceptedNoise level: Quiet (except for occasional sirens outside and dish clanking inside)Parking: StreetAccessible: YesSoundtrack: Classical
what to drink
For such a petite place, the list of white, rosé, red and sparkling/ dessert wines is hearty and suits a wide range of budgets, either by the glass or bottle. By-the-glass prices range from $4 to $12.50, while beers are $3.50 and up. Oak 63 doesn’t have a hard liquor license.
For such a petite place, the list of white, rosé, red and sparkling/ dessert wines is hearty and suits a wide range of budgets, either by the glass or bottle. By-the-glass prices range from $4 to $12.50, while beers are $3.50 and up. Oak 63 doesn’t have a hard liquor license.
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